Prayer Shawl Ministries

Taking a knitting vacation

2011-05-04T08:03:00.000-07:00

I've been gaining weight since I got obsessed with lace knitting. I had to quit knitting to get time to exercise and keep up my responsibilities with the kids and house. Maybe later I'll find time to design more patterns, but in the meantime I'll leave this here as a source of free patterns. Sorry I haven't gotten to all the requests for help - I think some are so old the writer probably either figured it out or frogged it by now.

New Design Coming!

2010-10-11T04:02:00.001-07:00

A group from my church read Cutting for Stone by Abraham Verghese. It is about twin brothers growing up in Ethiopia in a medical mission. Good book. One of the important parts of the story is the discovery of a way to treat fistula.

A fistula occurs when a woman in labor cannot deliver her baby and the pressure of contractions for days causes openings to be torn between her uterus and colon so she gets a constant flow of smelly fluids running down her legs that she cannot control. It is truly horrendous and the women, because they smelled and seemed "unclean" were often shunned after this happened to them.

It looks like The Fistula Foundation is the charity that is doing the most to end this problem, so this shawl will be called the FF Celtic Cross Shawl, and be dedicated to them. I hope if people like the design they will look at the links, maybe watch their award-winning movie "A Walk to Beautiful" or the slideshow "From Despair to Dignity" that the Fistula Foundation made to raise awareness about this problem and what can be done to help.

I think this is the essence of a prayer shawl ministry - women coming together, sharing something that is uniquely womanly, to help others. How perfect that in this case it will be helping fellow women in their time of need!

I've started a thread on Ravelry for a KAL of this pattern. When all the errors are corrected I'll post the instructions here as a new post called FF Celtic Cross.

The Rosalie Rosary Shawl (test pattern)

2010-06-01T04:17:00.000-07:00

Rosalie Rosary Shawl

This can be knit in several gauges.
A: If your gauge is around 12-16 stitches per 4 inches, use the first set of numbers. You will need approximately 700 yards of yarn.
B: If it is 17-22 stitches per 4 inches use the second set of numbers. You will need approximately 850 yards of yarn, more if you intend to make it longer like a cape.
C: If it is 23 or higher use the third set of numbers. You will need approximately 1200 yards of yarn.

Rosary

You will also need a lightweight cross and 53 matching beads for the rosary. If you look on eBay you can find some pretty nice beads to use, or you can try a local craft store or even a flea market to find a necklace you can remove beads from. If you will be using the second method, you will also need 6 lightweight buttons, ¾” or larger for the wrong side, and 5 buttons about the same size for the front.

There are two ways to attach the rosary beads.

#1: If you are using thin yarn or large enough beads, you can put them right on the yarn as you knit. For this, you will need to be using wool yarn and the spit splice method. Where indicated, break the yarn leaving a 12” tail. Use a tapestry needle to string the beads. For the cross at the top, string 3 beads, the cross, then go back through the three beads. For the lower 5 loops of 10 beads each, make sure the loop is large enough to fit over the button you got for the other side, then knot it into the loop to keep it from growing or shrinking. Remove the needle, reattach the end to the ball of yarn using a spit splice, and continue knitting in pattern.

To do a spit splice, unravel the ends of the yarn and pull apart some so they are loose. Wet both ends, hold together overlapping the loosened parts, and roll them back and forth between your hands, creating heat to felt them together. You may want to test your yarn before using this method to be sure it can be spit spliced.

#2: The other way is to attach the beads after you are finished, using a strong thread and a lightweight button on the reverse side for added stability.

When you finish knitting the shawl and weaving in the ends, apply the rosary beads as follows: Cross and three beads centered on the upper right neck edge in the imaginary square where the neck edging and border edging meet - so it would be about ½” to ¾” from the top and right edge. Five sets of loops of 10 beads, starting with the bottom right edge, centered in the imaginary square where the bottom border and side edging meet, the other 4 at the corners of the zig-zags (inward and outward corners) on the right side.

Place a lightweight button on the wrong side of the shawl where the bead loop is to be. Using a needle and your thread, go through one of the button’s holes and the shawl, leaving a tail. Place 10 beads on the needle and thread, then go back through the shawl and button. Make sure the loop this makes is large enough to fit around the button for the other side, then do a few passes through the shawl and button to hold it in place and tie the thread ends together. It will be stronger if you go through two rows of knitting and not just one piece of yarn. For the cross, go through three beads, then the cross, then back through the three beads, with the button on the wrong side as above. You can use a spot of glue from a glue gun to hold the knot in place.

----------------------

This shawl uses the Fibonacci numbers. They are 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, 21, 34, 55, and on - you add the two previous numbers to get the next number. These numbers occur in nature a lot and often give results that are pleasing to the eye. In this case, you alternate the yarn over being before or after the knit section so the Fibonacci numbers are on alternating sides of the border edge.

These instructions are for a cape-type shawl that will measure 18”-20” from the neck down. For longer shawls, continue in pattern to the desired length.

Neck Edging
To begin cast on 35 (45, 54) [A (B, C)]
Row 1: knit, purl, repeat to end
Row 2: knit the knit stitches and purl the purled ones
Row 3: purl the knit stitches and knit the purled ones
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until piece measures 1.5 inches.

Shaping
4 (5, 6) stitches on either side are the border pattern. These will always be done in the moss stitch as above - knit the purls and purl the knits on the right side, knit the knits and purl the purls on the wrong side.

1
Row 1: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 4(5, 6) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 2 and all even rows: knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches and yarn overs (moss stitch the borders and stockinet the center).
1
Row 3: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 5(6, 7) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
2
Row 5: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 6 (7, 8) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 7: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 7 (8, 9) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
3
Row 9: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 8 (9, 10) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 11: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 9 (10, 11) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 13: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 10 (11, 12) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
5 * Rosary Method # 1 - add a loop of beads 2 (3, 4) stitches before the end of row 15 - ONLY if you will be binding off at Row 107
Row 15: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 11 (12, 13) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 17: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 12 (13, 14) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 19: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 13, (14, 15) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 21: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 14 ( 15,16) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 23: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 15 (16, 17) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
8 * Rosary Method # 1 - add a loop of beads 2 (3, 4) stitches before the end of row 25.
Row 25: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 16 (17, 18) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 27: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 17 (18, 19) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 29: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 18 (19, 20) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 31: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 19 (20, 21) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 33: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 20 (21, 22) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 35: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 21 (22, 23) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 37: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 22 (23, 24) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 39: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 23 (24, 25) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
13 * Rosary Method # 1 - add a loop of beads 2 (3, 4) stitches before the end of row 41.
Row 41: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 24 (25, 26) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 43: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 25 (26, 27) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 45: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 26 (27, 28) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 47: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 27 (28, 29) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 49: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 28 (29, 30) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 51: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 29 (30, 31) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 53: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 30 (31, 32) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 55: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 31 (32, 33) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 57: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 32 (33, 34) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 59: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 33 (34, 35) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 61: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 34 (35, 36) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 63: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 35 (36, 37) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 65: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 36 (37, 38) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
21 * Rosary Method # 1 - add a loop of beads 2 (3, 4) stitches before the end of row 67
Row 67: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 37 (38, 39) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 69: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 38 (39, 40) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 71: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 39 (40, 41) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 73: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 40 (41, 42) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 75: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 41 (42, 43) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 77: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 42 (43, 44) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 79: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 43 (44, 45) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 81: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 44 (45, 46) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 83: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 45 (46, 47) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 85: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 46 (47, 48) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 87: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 47 (48, 49) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 89: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 48 (49, 50) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 91: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 49 (50, 51) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 93: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 50 (51, 52) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 95: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 51 (52, 53) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 97: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 52 (53, 54) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 99: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 53 (54, 55) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 101: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 54 (55, 56) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.

** Alternate endings - If this is long enough, from here to the end of Row 107 do moss stitch all the way across, making yarn overs where indicated. Remember if you will be killing your acrylic or blocking the wool it will gain an inch or more. Every other row there will be two knits or two purls where the yarn over changed the count. It doesn’t matter much on the wrong side whether you knit or purl the yarn overs, but on the right side, be sure to follow the alternating knit, purl pattern for each repeated section. * Rosary Method # 1 - add a loop of beads 2 (3, 4) stitches before the end of row 103.

Row 103: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 55 (56, 57) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 105: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 56 (57, 58) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 107: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 57 (58, 59) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
** Bind off loosely using a larger needle if you decided to end it here.
34 * Rosary Method # 1 - add a loop of beads 2 (3, 4) stitches before the end of row 109.
Row 109: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 58 (59, 60) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 111: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 59 (60, 61) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 113: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 60 (61, 62) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 115: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 61 (62, 63) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 117: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 62 (63, 64) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 119: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 63 (64, 65) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 121: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 64 (65, 66) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 123: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 65 (66, 67) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 125: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 66 (67, 68) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 127: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 67 (68, 69) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 129: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 68 (69, 70) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 131: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 69 (70, 71) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 133: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 70 (71, 72) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 135: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 71 (72, 73) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 139: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 72 (73, 74) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 141: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 73 (74, 75) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 143: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 74 (75, 76) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 145: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 75 (76, 77) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 147: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 76 (77, 78) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 149: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 77 (78, 79) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 151: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 78 (79, 80) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 153: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 79 (80, 81) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 155: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 80 (81, 82) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 157: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 81 (82, 83) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 159: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 82 (83, 84) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 161: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 83 (84, 85) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 163: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 84 (85, 86) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 165: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 85 (86, 87) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 167: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 86 (87, 88) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.

Ending: Every other row there will be two knits or two purls where the yarn over changed the count. It doesn’t matter much on the wrong side whether you knit or purl the yarn overs, but on the right side, be sure to follow the alternating knit, purl pattern for each repeated section.

Row 169: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Moss stitch 87 (88, 89) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
* Rosary Method # 1 - add a loop of beads 2 (3, 4) stitches before the end of row 171.
Row 171: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Moss stitch 88 (89, 90) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 173: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Moss stitch 89 (90, 91) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 175: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Moss stitch 90 (91, 92) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 177: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Moss stitch 91 (92, 93) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.

Bind off loosely.

New design coming!

2010-05-16T15:43:00.000-07:00

Sr. Rosalie Bertell is a very interesting person.

Rosalie Bertell, Grey Nun of the Sacred Heart, received her Ph. D. degree in Biometrics with minors in Biology and Biochemistry from the Catholic University of America, in 1966. Since that time she has worked as a biometrician and environmental epidemiologist. By choice, Dr. Bertell works for the victims or potential victims of industrial, technological and military pollution with a particular emphasis on assisting the struggles of third world and indigenous people to preserve their Human Right to life and health. The major issues are the dangers associated with economic globalization, war and the proliferation of chemical and radioactive pollutants as the result of preparation for war and the toxic products and processes developed from weapons research and production.

The International Institute of Concern for Public Health (IICPH), of which she is Founder and Immediate Past President, opened its doors in 1984 in Toronto Canada and continues to serve as an institutional support for her work. She is also a founding member of the International Commission of Health Professionals, and the International Association of Humanitarian Medicine.

Among many projects she has headed, the most notable are: Director of the International Medical Commission Bhopal which investigated the aftermath of the Bhopal disaster in India, and organizer of the International Medical Commission Chernobyl to present testimony to the Permanent People's Tribunal. She assisted the people of the Philippines with problems stemming from toxic waste left by the U.S. Military on their abandoned Subic and Clark military bases. She has worked with the government of Ireland to hold Britain responsible for the radioactive pollution of the Irish Sea, and is assisting the Gulf War Veterans and the Iraqi citizens dealing with the illness called Gulf War Syndrome. She acted as Consultant to local, Provincial and Federal Governments, unions and citizen organizations.

She is the recipient of five honourary degrees. Among her many awards can be numbered the Alternative Nobel Prize, Right Livelihood Award; World Federalist Peace Award; Ontario Premier's Council on Health, Health Innovator Award; the United Nations Environment Programme Global 500 award and the Sean MacBride International Peace Prize. She has recently been selected to be one of the 1000 Peace Women nominated for the Nobel Peace Prize, 2005. Rosalie has published numerous articles, reviewed articles for professional journals and was editor of the journal, "International Perspectives in Public Health". Her books, "No Immediate Danger: Prognosis for a Radioactice Earth" and "Planet Earth: The Latest Weapon of War" can be obtained from IICPH. "Handbook For Estimating Health Effects From Exposure To Ionizing Radiation" intended for the health Professionals, which she edited, is also obtainable from IICPH.

I've realized that my header says these are supposed to be easy designs, and lately they haven't been exactly something a beginner could easily tackle. So this new design will be a very easy one. Very very easy. You could probably knit it under your desk at work, or in a meeting. Once you "get" it, you may not even have to look at the pattern. Yeah, that easy. It will also use the Fibonacci numbers, thanks to my son liking the book "Penrose, the Mathematical Cat".

Kathy Kelly Cabled Capelet

2010-05-02T01:10:00.000-07:00

This pattern is dedicated to Kathy Kelly, a friend of a friend and someone who exemplifies the kind of woman warrior for peace I like to bring more attention to. She was a founding member of Voices in the Wilderness, and also Voices for Creative Non-Violence. She's been called "probably the most respected leader in the American peace movement." She has put herself in the line of fire in fact-finding missions to very dangerous places, and has been imprisoned several times because of the work she is doing.

download now

Use a worsted weight (or thicker) yarn with stitch gauge at most 18 stitches per 4 inches with whatever size needles it takes you to get that gauge. I'm doing mine with Lion Brand Fisherman's wool yarn and using #8 circulars (but it is NOT knit in the round!)

Stitch Abbreviations:

K - knit
P - purl
SSK - slip, slip, knit - a
K2tog - knit two stitches together
K3 into 1 - into the same stitch - knit, yarn over, knit
Lifted increase stitches - this is an almost invisible increase done by knitting into a stitch below the current row. See the video on http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to-knit-lifted-increase-176501/ if you have trouble with this stitch. There are 4 versions:
Llk - insert the left needle into the stitch beneath the stitch just knitted & knit it.
Llp - insert the left needle into the stitch beneath the stitch just knitted & purl it.
Lrk - insert the right needle into the stitch beneath the next stitch to be knitted, transfer that stitch to the left needle and knit it.
Lrp - insert the right needle into the stitch beneath the next stitch to be knitted, transfer that stitch to the left needle and purl it.

This complicated looking stitch notation will get easy to use once you get used to it. I wrote out the first two in the pattern so you can test your understanding of how to read it. Believe me, as the pattern goes on this will make things SO much easier to read!
C - cable stitch - after the C is the number of stitches you slip to the cable needle, then f if you hold it to the front or b if you hold it to the back, k and a number tells you to knit that many stitches next; or p and a number tells you to purl that many stitches next; then c and either k or p to show you’re now to knit or purl all the stitches from the cable needle. For example C2fk1ck would be slip 2 to the cable needle, hold to the front, knit 1, then knit the 2 from the cable needle.

I will use the format [first edge], (repeat the stitches inside these the number given - to make the 7 panels), additional stitches, [second edge]. If you want to change the edge to seed stitch or widen it or add buttonholes, that should make it clear where you can do that.

Cast on 57.

Row 1: knit

Row 2 and all even rows: purl

Row 3: [K2, P2, K3], (K2, P, K, P, K) X 7, K, [K3, P2, K2]

Row 5: [P2, K2, P2, K], (K2, P, K, P, K) X 7, K, [K, P2, K2, P2]

Row 7: repeat Row 3

Row 9: [P2, K2, P2, K], (K3 into 1, K, P, K, Llk, P, K) X 7, K3 into 1, [K, P2, K2, P2]

Row 11: [K2, P2, K2, K2tog], (K3 into 1, K2 tog, P, C1fk1ck**slip 1 to cable needle, hold to front, knit next stitch, knit 1 from cable - got it?**, P, SSK) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 13: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog], (K3 into 1, SSK, P, K, Llk, Lrk, K, P, K2 tog) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 15: [K2, P2, K2, K2tog], (K3 into 1, SSK, P, C2fk2ck **slip 2 to cable needle, hold to front, knit next 2 stitches, knit the 2 from cable needle**, P, K2 tog) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 17: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog], (K3 into 1, K2, P, K2, Llp, Lrp, K2, P, K2) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 19: [K2, P2, K2, K2tog], (K3 into 1, K, SSK, P, C2fp1ck, C1bk2cp, P, K2 tog, K) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 21: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog], (K3 into 1, K, SSK, P2, Llp, C2fk2ck, Lrp, P2, K2 tog, K) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 23: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K, SSK, P, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, P, K2 tog, K) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 25: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K3, P, C2fp2ck, slip 2 to cable needle, hold to back, knit 1, Llk, purl 2 from cable needle, K, Llk, P, K3) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 27: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K2, SSK, P3, C2fk2ck, P2, K2, P, K2 tog, K2) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 29: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K2, SSK, P, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, K2, Llp, P, Llp, K2 tog, K2) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 31: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K2, SSK, P, K2, P4, C2fk2ck, P3, K2 tog, K2) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 33: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K4, P, Llp, C2fp2ck, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, Lrp, P, K4) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2] *be careful here to get the two Lrp’s in - I kept missing them!

For those counting stitches, Row 9 was increased by 23 stitches to a total of 80 stitches. I increased it by 14 stitches on rows 13, 21, and 29. I increased it by 28 stitches on rows 17, 25, and 33. Every other odd row has no increases (and the even rows are just purled.
------------------
Row 35: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K3, SSK, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, K2, P2, K2 tog, K3) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 37: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K3, SSK, P2, Llk, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, C2bk2cp, P2, K2 tog, K3) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 39: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K3, SSK, P2, Llk, C2fk1ck, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, K2 tog, K3) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 41: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K5, P2, K2, Llp, Lrp, C2fp2ck, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, P2, K5) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

*****Row 37 and 39 were increased by 7 stitches; Row 41 was increased by 28 stitches.
---------------
Row 43: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K4, SSK, P2, K2, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, K2, P2, K2 tog, K4) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 45: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K4, SSK, P2, C2fp2ck, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, Llk, C2bk1cp, K, Llk, P2, K2 tog, K4) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 47: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K4, SSK, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, C2fk2ck, P2, K2, P2, K2 tog, K4) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 49: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K6, P2, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, K2, P, Llp, Lrp, P, K6) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 51: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K5, SSK, P2, K2, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, K2 tog, K5) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

**Row 45 was increased by 14; Row 49 was increased by 28.

------------------
Row 53: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K5, SSK, P2, K, Llk, C1fp2ck, Llk, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, P2, K2 tog, K5) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 55: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K5, SSK, P2, K2, P2, C2fk2ck, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, K2, P2, K2 tog, K5) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 57: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K7, P, Llp, Lrp, P, K2, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, C2bk2cp, P2, K7) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 59: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K6, SSK, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, K2 tog, K6) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

** Row 53 was increased by 14 stitches and Row 57 by 28 stitches.

---------------

Row 61: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K6, SSK, P3, Llp, C1bk2cp, C2fp1ck, P2, C1bk2cp, C2fp1ck, P2, C1bk2cp, C2fp1ck, Lrp, P3, K2 tog, K6) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 63: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K6, SSK, P3, C1bk2cp, P2, C2fp1ck, C1bk2cp, P2, C2fp1ck, C1bk2cp, P2, C2fp1ck, P3, K2 tog, K6) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 65: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K8, P3, K2, Llk, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, Lrk, K2, P3, K8) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

**Row 61 was increased by 14 stitches; Row 65 was increased by 28 stitches.
---------------------
Row 67: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K7, SSK, P3, C3fp1ck, P2, C1bk2cp, C2fp1ck, P2, C1bk2cp, C2fp1ck, P2, C1bk3cp, P3, K2 tog, K7) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 69: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K7, SSK, P4, C3fp1ck, Llk, C1bk2cp, P2, C2fp1ck, C1bk2cp, P2, C2fp1ck, Llk, C1bk3cp, P4, K2 tog, K7) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 71: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K7, SSK, P5, C3fk3ck, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, C3fk3ck, P5, K2 tog, K7) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 73: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K9, P4, C1bk3cp, C3fp1ck, P2, Llk, C1bk2cp, C2fp1ck, Llk, P2, C1bk3cp, C3fp1ck, P4, K9) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 75: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K8, SSK, P3, K2 tog, K2, Lrp, P2, C3fp1ck, C1bk3cp, P2, C3fp1ck, C1bk3cp, P2, Llp, K2, SSK, P3, K2 tog, K8) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 77: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K8, SSK, P2, K2 tog, Llk, K2, Lrp, P4, C3fk3ck, P4, C3fk3ck, P4, Llp, K2, Llk, SSK, P2, K2 tog, K8) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

** Rows 69 and 77 were increased by 14; Row 73 was increased by 28.
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Row 79: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K8, SSK, P, K2 tog, K3, Llk, P4, C1bk3cp, C3fp1ck, P2, C1bk3cp, C3fp1ck, P4, Lrk, K3, SSK, P, K2 tog, K8) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 81: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K10, P, K2 tog, K3, P3, K2 tog, K2, Lrp, P2, Llp, C3fp1ck, C1bk3cp, Lrp, P2, Llp, K2, SSK, P3, K3, SSK, P, K10) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2] ** this row increased the stitch count by 14.

Row 83: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K9, SSK, P, K2 tog, K2, P2, K2 tog, K2, Llk, P5, Llp, C3fk3ck, Lrp, P5, Lrk, K2, SSK, P2, K2, SSK, P, K2 tog, K9) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 85: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K9, SSK, P, K2 tog, K, P, K2 tog, Lrk, K3, Llk, P5, C1bk3cp, C3fp1ck, P5, Lrk, K3, Llk, SSK, P, K, SSK, P, K2 tog, K9) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 87: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K9, SSK, P14, K2 tog, Lrk, K2, Lrp, P2, Llp, K2, Llk, SSK, P14, K2 tog, K9) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2] ** this row increased the stitch count by 14

Row 89: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K11, P13, K2 tog, Lrk, K3, Lrp, P4, Llp, K3, Llk, SSK, P13, K11) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2] ** this row increased the stitch count by 28

Row 91: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K10, SSK, P12, K2 tog, Lrk, K4, P6, K4, Llk, SSK, P12, SSK, K10) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2] ** this row increased the stitch count by 14

Row 93: Bind off. You’re done! Now if it’s wool, soak it in a wool wash solution, rinse, squeeze out as much water as you can, lay it out in a beach towel and roll it and the beach towel together into a log and walk on the log (to squeeze out as much water as possible), then pin out on a large surface (I use the guest bed). The lines down the bits between the cabled panels should all be straight, and the cabled parts should be stretched out (the garter part will try to compress them some). Put a fan on it and let it dry, patting yourself on the back for a job well done!

If it’s acrylic, I’ve found the easiest way to kill it is to put several towels on a flat surface and pin the shawl out as stretched as I can get it, then steam it using an iron held 1/8 inch above the yarn. If you let the iron touch it, it will flatten the yarn weirdly, if it’s too far away the yarn doesn’t get hot enough and will snap back to the unstretched position. You should be able to see the yarn move slightly when the steam hits it, kind of shrinking and then relaxing. You may want to go around the edges again for good measure. Then pat yourself on the back and you’re done!

You may want to spray some starch on the edges to help them lay flat.

New design coming!

2010-04-28T03:22:00.000-07:00

I'm 95% done designing the next prayer shawl, which will be more of a cape, actually, due to not much in the way of lacey holes and lots of cables. It probably won't be for beginning knitters, except maybe for the fearless ones. It will be dedicated to Kathy Kelly, founder of Voices in the Wilderness and also co-coordinator for Voices for Creative NonViolence. More about her when the pattern comes out.

Picture this: the cables will start as a single strand, which grows almost like a vine and spirals, ever enlarging as it reaches the edge until it is a whirlpool. I was thinking of tornadoes, maelstroms and spirals as I designed this, but now I feel it is quite beautiful. There will be elongated diamonds separating each cable panel (the only lace element), and an edge that would be easy to add buttonholes to if one wanted to fasten it around themselves.

Sometimes lace just isn't warm enough for some people. This should WARM them! My lace shawls fall off my shoulders a lot. This should stay on. I looked for cabled shawls and didn't see many at all and nothing like this one. How did it happen? I woke up at 1:00 in the morning with my brain just going. I contemplated God, chaos theory, activists, and the meaning of life, then this shawl popped into my head as a picture. Then I had to figure out how to make the yarn do what the picture required. Like so many other lace patterns, it just flew off the needles almost as if it had been already designed and I just had to remember how it was done.

The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly

2009-11-29T03:28:00.000-08:00

Let's start this off with the good. I found a wonderful blog that tells how to make your own yarn swift! You know, those spindly-spinny things that help you move yarn between hanks, cones and balls. So if you'd like to get more into hand dyeing wool, or just a better way to wind hank or cone yarn into balls, here it is! I made one in a few hours with a miter box and power drill, spending around $2 on parts - the long bolt and some washers. I had the rest sitting in the garage.

Here it is: http://www.craftydiversions.com/patterns/homemade_yarn_swift.htm - THANK YOU Anne Kuo Lukito! You can buy a .pdf of the directions from her for just $2 on her site.

The only thing I'd like to add is, be sure to drill straight down when you make the hole in the center for the main bolt that holds it all together. Mine's off so one part of the swift is higher than the other now. Live and learn!

The Bad and Ugly
Sigh. Someone had written to me when I posted about charity knitting that on a certain reservation in the USA where handknit items were donated, a lot were just thrown away. So it was no little surprise to see this blog entry about the outcomes of some handmade afghans being sent to Afghanistan. Yes, being a people of rich artistic traditions in textiles, they don't seem to appreciate our handmade blankets of cheap acrylic.

Adieu Warm Woolies

2009-11-21T12:01:00.000-08:00

Their website states:

"Dear Warm Woolies Friends,

Warm Woolies has decided to cease operating at the end of 2009.

Warm Woolies has always relied on relationships with international adoption agencies and international relief efforts to distribute our pieces overseas. Over the past year, due to matters beyond our control, these agencies and efforts are no longer able to distribute our pieces. Without these distribution channels, we are no longer able to fulfill our mission of providing children around the world with warm clothing."

Afghans for Afghans is still in operation and does almost the same thing.

Sally's Slippers

2009-10-26T05:01:00.000-07:00

This pattern, a reworking of the "Felted Slippers" found on Midnattsol's blog is dedicated to Sally Fallon, a tireless worker to reach the masses with her message of how to be healthy. She's taken on the work of Weston A. Price, built upon what he started, and helps run the Weston A. Price Foundation (with a great group of other people like Mary Enig and Chris Masterjohn, to name a few). She co-authored the bestselling book "Nourishing Traditions" and has written several other books as well.

Weston A. Price was the world's most interesting dentist. He traveled the world, living with Eskimos and headhunters to find out why tribal people had perfect teeth while those in the industrialized world had crooked teeth with lots of cavities - what he found surpassed his own expectations as the nutritional differences also seemed to produce overall health and even emotional stability. He then made it his mission to bring what he learned about nutrition and health to the attention of the public, publishing his book "Nutrition and Physical Degeneration" and running studies on nutrition in the cities of America.

The Pattern

This is a fun way to make slippers. You knit a series of squares, in alternating directions, then sew a few seams and it magically becomes a slipper. Throw it in the wash to shrink it down and you get a wonderful warm soft cushiony slipper to warm your feet all winter. This is a great stashbusting project because each square can be a different color and you can use up all those odds and ends of wool leftover from other projects. If the yarn is too thin you can strand - use two or more strands together to make the thicknesses match. The only thing you need to be careful of is that all of the yarn you use needs to be "feltable" - that is, no superwash or acrylic here! Use wool.

To begin, knit up a square of the yarn you want to use in garter stitch and put it through your wash and dry cycle to see how much it's going to shrink (if you're knitting these for a charity and it doesn't matter what size the slippers wind up you can skip this part!). Get your gauge for the project from the shrunken swatch.

Then look up the size you want to make on my handy chart and see how big your squares need to be. In my chart I figured for 25% shrinkage but depending on the yarn it may be more or less so a swatch may be more reliable.

You'll begin by making square 1, using enough stitches to get the size square you'll need, and making twice as many rows as you have stitches going across (so if you cast on 12 stitches you'll do 24 rows in garter stitch). You can easily count rows by counting ridges and you'll know you're done when you have as many ridges on both sides as you do stitches on the needle. In my example I'm using 10 stitches and knitting 20 rows, or 10 rows of ridges.

After the first square, check that it is the right size (if you're using the chart) by tugging the sides out to make it square and measuring. Then bind off so you have just one stitch on the needles. From here on, you will always use the same number of stitches as in the first square to make the rest of the squares, and the same number of rows (sometimes one less on one side to make it come out at the right corner).

Cast on enough stitches to get the right number for the next square, counting the one stitch you still have on the needles. This will be square number 2. Knit until you have enough rows for a square (same number of ridges as you have stitches - don't stop when it "looks" like a square). Bind off so the last stitch will be diagonal from where the current square is attached to square one. Again, keep the last stitch on the needle.

Cast on enough stitches to make another square, like you did for square 2. Knit two rows. On the third row, knit all but the last stitch. Pick up the closest stitch you just bound off from square 2 by inserting the needle through one side of the loop. Then knit that together with the last stitch. Do this every time the row ends against square #2. Bind this square off so your last stitch will be down by square #2, keeping the last stitch on the needle.

Pick up stitches from the edge of square #2 on the other needle. If you have more than the number you need, continue binding off until you have the right number of stitches on your needles. Knit this square as you did the last one, picking up stitches from the bound off edge of square #1 and binding off so the last stitch is away from square #1. Pat yourself on the back, you're halfway done!

Pick up enough stitches along the top of the square you just completed to knit square number 5, picking up stitches from the bound off edge of square number 3 as you get to them at the end of the rows and knitting them together with the last stitch from the row.

When you finish square number 5, bind off so the last stitch is toward square number 3. Pick up enough stitches from square number 3 to knit another square (you may want to bind off another stitch to make sure the new square comes to the edge of square 3). Knit square number 6, making sure when you bind off that the last stitch is on the correct side to pick up stitches from the edge of the square you just completed to knit square number 7.

Knit square number 7, picking up stitches from the bound off edges of square number 5 as you come to it and knitting them together with the last stitch of the row. When you get enough rows on square 7, bind off so the last stitch is in the right position to start square number 8.

Pick up stitches from the edge of square 7 and knit square 8, binding off completely when you finish that square.

Now follow the diagram, matching up and stitching sides A and B, then C, D, and E. You've finished one slipper!

When you finish both slippers, put them through the full wash and dry cycle, high heat, to shrink them down. If they are still too big, you can do it again to shrink them more. If they are just a little tight, they will stretch to fit the foot comfortably in a day or two of use.

In case you want to use several colors and plan where they will be, here is the location of each square (unless you accidentally stitch it upside down!): 1 and 2 are the side flaps. 3 and 7 are the sides. 4 is the back, 5 is the bottom under the heel, 6 is the bottom under the toes, and 8 is the square on top of the toes.

Added 11/7/09: To make them non-skid, the cheapest and so far best way I've seen is to use 100% silicone caulk. You can do lines, dots, words (hand wash, or right and left), or cover the whole sole and spread with a craft stick or grooved spreader for extra traction.

Kingsolver Shawl Knitting Instructions

2009-09-19T04:05:00.000-07:00

This is a triangular shawl, with a [yarnover, knit, yarnover] double increase down the center and an increase on both edges. I'm knitting it with a thin yarn on largish needles to enhance the laciness but I'm sure many readers will want to try different sizes of yarn and needles so that's how I'm writing the instructions. The shawl consists of 4 patterns, the Soaring Birds, the Ears of Wheat, the Climbing Leaves, and the Waves of Water. I've charted the patterns and will start you off with written out instructions but then refer you to the charts to continue for the specified amount.

I've decided that triangle shawls are the most flattering to most women, but they need to be big enough. I've seen many patterns that have the long side measure 7 feet. That uses a lot of yarn and you need pretty big needles to keep it all on! I highly recommend using circular needles.

Key:
K= knit
O = yarnover
SSK = slip, slip, knit - a right-leaning decrease
K2tog = knit two together - a left-leaning decrease
C** SL2,K1,P2SSO = slip 2 like for the K2tog, knit the next stitch, then pass the two slipped stitches over the one you just knit, for a centered double decrease. This is used on the Ears of Wheat and the Climbing Leaves.
SK2P - slip 1, knit 2 together as one, pass the slipped stitch over for a left-leaning decrease. This is used on the Soaring Birds and the Waves of Water.

To begin, cast on 3.

Row 1: K
Row 2 and all even rows, purl
Row 3: K, O, K, O, K
Row 5: (K, O)x4, K
Row 7: K, (O, K3, O, K)x2
Row 9: K, (O, K5, O, K)x2
Row 11: K, (O, K7, O, K)x2
Row 13: K, (O, K2, O, SSK, K, K2tog, O, K2, O, K)x2
Row 15: K, (O, K4, O, SK2P, O, K4, O, K)x2
Row 17: K, (O, K13, O, K)x2
Row 19: K, (O, K15, O, K)x2
Row 21: K, (O, K17, O, K)x2
Row 23: start second row of "birds" following the chart. Notice there will always be two knit stitches at the beginning and end of the rows, and 5 knit stitches between the "birds".

Continue until this section measures 12 inches measured in the direction indicated. You can click on the chart to see it bigger. The chart shows one of the two repeats so remember you need to do it twice.

Once it measures 12 inches, continue if necessary so you end after the purl row, the 7th row below the last "bird". Now you're ready to start the "Ears of Wheat" pattern. For these, each side of the center double increase should mirror the other side. If your stitch count is not off, the end of the row will also mirror the beginning. Where it says "repeat", you repeat until there aren't enough stitches to do another complete repitition. From there, stop at the nearest semicolon in the pattern to prevent your stitch count from being messed up, then knit the remainder to the center increase. Do the O, K, O for the center increase, then knit the same number of stitches as you did on the other side of the center increase. If it comes out exactly enough to repeat the pattern before the center, make sure you can still do an increase there - if necessary knit, yarnover, knit into the center stitch. I put semicolons in the second "repeat" to help you find where to start the pattern again. If you stopped at the first ; then resume the AFTER CENTER repeat at the second ; and if you stopped at the second ; then resume the AFTER CENTER pattern at the first ;

Transition Row 1: K, O, (K, K2tog, O, K; O, K2Tog; K2) repeat to center increase, knit any remaining stitches to center
CENTER: O, K, O,
AFTER CENTER: knit the mirror of the other side to resume (K2; K2tog, O, K; O, SSK, K) repeat to end, O, K (this should come out even at the end of the row).
Next Row: purl
Transition Row 3: K, O, (K, K2tog, O; K3, O, K2tog) repeat to center, breaking at semicolon if needed and adding knit stitches if needed, O, K, O at center, repeat mirror of other side to resume (K2tog, O, K3; O, SSK, K) repeat to end, O, K
Next Row: purl
Transition Row 5: K, O, K, K2tog, O, (K5, O, C**, O) repeat to center, adding knit stitches if needed, O, K, O at center, repeat mirror of other side to resume(O, C**, O, K5) repeat to end, O, SSK, K, O, K

Begin Ears of Wheat Pattern (for all continue as above, knitting extra stitches near center and using the O, K, O increase in the center, knitting the same number of extra stitches on the other side. On purl rows, purl across center. Count the number of stitches purled up to the center from the last knit stitch and purl that number on the other side of the center before knitting one and resuming the P7, K pattern):
Row 1: P3, (K, P7) to center...(P7, K), purl last 3 stitches.
Row 2: K, O, K2, (P, O, K2, C**, K2, O) repeat to center...(O, K2, C**, K2, O, P)repeat to end, K2, O, K
Row 3: P4, (K, P7) to center... (P7, K), purl last 4 stitches.
Row 4: K, O, K3, (P, O, K2, C**, K2, O) repeat to center...(O, K2, C**, K2, O, P)repeat to end, K3, O, K
Row 5: P5, (K, P7) to center... (P7, K), purl last 5 stitches.
Row 6: K, O, SSK, K2, O, (P, O, K2, C**, K2, O) repeat to center...(O, K2, C**, K2, O, P)repeat to end, O, K2, K2tog, O, K
Row 7: P6, (K, P7) to center... (P7, K), purl last 6 stitches.
Row 8: K, O, K, SSK, K2, O, (P, O, K2, C**, K2, O) repeat to center...(O, K2, C**, K2, O, P)repeat to end, O, K2, K2tog, K, O, K
Row 9: P7, (K, P7) to center... (P7, K), purl last 7 stitches.
Row 10: K, O, K2, SSK, K2, O, (P, O, K2, C**, K2, O) repeat to center...(O, K2, C**, K2, O, P)repeat to end, O, K2, K2tog, K2, O, K
Row 11: P8, (K, P7) to center... (P7, K), purl last 8 stitches.
Row 12: K, O, K3, SSK, K2, O, (P, O, K2, C**, K2, O) repeat to center...(O, K2, C**, K2, O, P)repeat to end, O, K2, K2tog, K3, O, K
Row 13: purl
Row 14: K, O, K2, (O, K, C**, K, O; K3) repeat to center...(K3; O, K, C**, K, O) repeat to end, K2, O, K
Row 15: purl
Row 16: K, O, K4, (O, C**, O; K5) repeat to center... (K5; O, C**, O) repeat to end, K4, O, K
Row 17: purl
Row 18: K, O, K2, SSK, K2, O, (P, O, K2, C**, K2, O) repeat to center... (O, K2, C**, K2, O, P) repeat to end, O, K2, K2tog, K2, O, K
Row 19: P8, (K, P7) repeat to center... (P7, K), purl last 8 stitches
Row 20: K, O, K3, SSK, K2, O, (P, O, K2, C**, K2, O) repeat to center... (O, K2, C**, K2, O, P) repeat to end, O, K2, SSK1, K3, O, K
Row 21: P9, (K, P7) repeat to center... (P7, K), purl last 9 stitches
Row 22: K, O, (P, O, K2, C**, K2, O) repeat to center... (O, K2, C**, K2, O, P) repeat to end, O, K
Row 23: P2, (K, P7) repeat to center... (P7, K), purl last 2 stitches
Row 24: K, O, K, (P, O, K2, C**, K2, O) repeat to center... (O, K2, C**, K2, O, P) repeat to end, K, O, K
Row 25: P3, (K, P7) repeat to center... (P7, K), purl last 3 stitches
Row 26: K, O, K2, (P, O, K2, C**, K2, O) repeat to center... (O, K2, C**, K2, O, P) repeat to end, K2, O, K
Row 27: P4, (K, P7) repeat to center…(P7, K), purl last 4 stitches
Row 28: K, O, K3, (P, O, K2, C**, K2, O) repeat to center... (O, K2, C**, K2, O, P) repeat to end, K3, O, K
Row 29: P5, (K, P7) repeat to center…(P7, K), purl last 5 stitches
Row 30: K, O, SSK, K2, (P, O, K2, C**, K2, O) repeat to center... (O, K2, C**, K2, O, P) repeat to end, K2, K2tog, O, K
Row 31: purl
Row 32: K, O, K, SSK, K, O, (K3; O, K, C**, K, O) repeat to center... (O, K, C**, K, O, K3) repeat to end, O, K, K2tog, K, O, K
Row 33: purl
Row 34: K, O, K, (O, C**, O; K5) repeat to center...(K5; O, C**, O) repeat to end, K, O, K

The Ears of Wheat section needs to be at least 6 inches. If you are using lace weight yarn and small needles it may not, so continue the pattern until it does. It's ok to make it more than 6 inches but you'll need more yarn then. If you are using larger yarn you may find it will become very large; in that case you can leave out a couple rows in the center of each "Ear of Wheat" - where the rows are identical except for the edge where you increase it.

Climbing Leaves Section

This pattern is really just two rows of knit pattern then the reverse of them. From here on out all rows on the wrong side are just purled. When you get to the center increase, you'll knit the reverse row on the other half, which is the second row above or below the one you just knit from the chart.

I'll write out the first four rows you'll knit, showing the edge stitches I used for the edge increases. If you shortened the Ears of Wheat or added rows it probably won't match mine. To begin this pattern, you pick the nearest O, K, O from the row you last knit and line it up with the column of O, K, O's from the charted pattern. You'll have to count backwards to see how many stitches of the pattern you can do, using the semicolons in the written instructions if needed to see where the increases and decreases balance out. An easier way, if you prefer, is you can just knit any extra stitches at the beginning, end, and center, not trying to break the pattern and figure out where to start. Regardless, as above, just knit any remaining stitches from the edges to the pattern and in the center before and after the center increase. And remember if the pattern comes out exactly at the center increase, use the knit, yarnover, knit in the center stitch to continue increasing there.

As you may notice, this pattern has a wonky stitch count - every other pair of rows has an extra stitch.

Continue the Climbing Leaves pattern for at least 6 inches, but longer for a larger shawl. The first row is the hardest but after that it's really easy to remember.

Row 1: K, O, K8, (O, K, O, SSK, K, K2tog; O, K2tog; K2tog, O; K5, O, K) repeat to center... (K, O, K5, O, K2tog; SSK, O; SSK, K, K2tog, O, K, O) repeat to end, K8, O, K

Row 2 and all even rows: purl

Row 3: K, O, K, O, K, K2tog, K3, SSK, O, K, (O, K3, O, C**; K, K2tog, O; K2tog, K3, SSK, O, K)repeat to center... (K, O, K2tog K3, K2tog; O SSK, K; C**, O, K3, O) repeat to end, K, O, K2tog, K3, SSK, O, K, O, K

Row 5: K, O, K2, SSK, O, SSK, K, K2tog, O, K, O, (K, O, K5, O, K2tog; SSK, O; SSK, K, K2tog, O, K, O) repeat to center...(O, K, O, SSK, K, K2tog; O, K2tog; K2tog, O; K5, O, K) repeat to end, O, K, O, SSK, K, K2tog, O, K2tog, K2, O, K

Row 7: K, O, K, O, SSK, K, C**, O, K3, O, (K, O, K2tog K3, K2tog; O SSK, K; C**, O, K3, O) repeat to center... (O, K3, O, C**; K, K2tog, O; K2tog, K3, SSK, O, K)repeat to end, O, K3, O, C**, K, SSK, O, K, O, K

You need to end this on one of the rows that has the C**/S2KP2 double decrease, so if that wasn't your last row, knit one more. There is no transition to the Waves of Water pattern, just center one of the yarnovers on the first row over the knit stitch in one of the O, K, O columns (not the stem). Make sure the edges and center of the shawl are still being increased. You don't need to reverse this pattern on the other side of the center increase, just be sure it has the same number of "extra" stitches on both sides. I put the last Ears of Wheat row in there for reference, but yours may be the other row that has the double decrease (which would be on the other side of the center).

When I bound off I used larger needles but it was still too tight. One way you may be able to prevent this is to knit one last row of just alternating knit, yarnover then purl then bind off. If you had extra edge you could block it to come to points for a more scalloped edge, which would be attractive.

New Shawl Coming

2009-08-26T11:43:00.000-07:00

The muse has bitten me again. I'm inspired to create a new shawl, a triangle one for a change, dedicated to Barbara Kingsolver. I'm swatching busily.

Barbara Kingsolver is not a unique voice in the world of women in sustainable agriculture, she is a member in a long line of female voices in this field. But I chose her to represent the rest, women like Helen Nearing, Ruth Stout and Deborah Koons Garcia, because her essay "A Fist in the Eye of God" is what really got me thinking hard about what I eat.

First installment - almost the edge - I can't believe 4 lines can create such a complicated and graceful knit pattern!

Recycling t-shirts

2009-07-27T05:25:00.001-07:00

After reading "How Europe Underdeveloped Africa" by Walter Rodney, I'm feeling guilty again about the ways underdeveloped labor is exploited for our benefit. Nowhere does this happen as badly as clothing (well, and food... and toys). I have terrible pangs of conscience whenever I buy a new item of clothing now. Was the cotton genetically modified, requiring more irrigation water and chemicals to grow, and driving cotton farmers into debt-related suicide? Were the workers in the mills that turned the raw cotton into yarn exposed to terrible working conditions and underpaid? Who made the shirts - were they paid a fair wage?

I just feel better recycling old shirts. Salvation Army is becoming my best friend. I feel like it doesn't count if I get it used.

I found a great book on treating t-shirts (or any cotton clothing, really) to make it more decorative. One of the techniques is called "Discharge Dyeing". You use a bleach solution to remove color from a dark colored shirt instead of dyeing a white shirt. For the one in the picture I used a solution of 1 cup bleach to 3 cups water. If you worry about the bleach/dioxin thing you can try the RIT decoloring stuff instead. I laid the shirt out flat then spider walked my fingers to scrunch it into mountains and then used some rubber bands and cotton yarn to tie it into a tight bundle. I submerged it in the bleach solution until it got the shade I wanted then put it in a deactivating solution I had ready - 1/4 cup vinegar to 1 quart (4 cups) water.

The cool thing about discharge dyeing is that you can use shirts with stains, bleach spots, whatever, and they'll look great when you're done!

Knitting Activists Needed!

2009-04-13T18:50:00.000-07:00

Help spread the word - Code Pink is seeking donation of pink or green 4" X 4" squares for a giant quilt as part of their demonstration for peace in the Middle East at the White House on Mother's Day. For more information see their website.

Anna Baltzer Wings of Peace Shawl

2009-04-04T06:13:00.000-07:00

This shawl is dedicated to Anna Baltzer, a peace advocate for Palestine. Interestingly to me, she is Jewish and is advocating on behalf of the Palestinians and she is not alone. You can see the video she has made here. You can buy it here.

One of the startling things to me is the almost complete media blackout in America of what is really happening in Palestine, which she covers in her video. Anna's colleague Kara was traveling between the U.S. and Palestine when she came across two conflicting Newsweek issues. The international version had a sympathetic article about the "Plight of the Palestinians" at the top. The same article was not only absent from the corresponding U.S. Newsweek cover (see the top line)... it was omitted from the entire magazine! How can we exercise our democratic responsibilities and make informed choices when we are being blocked from getting important information?

Yes, and I just found out about the Campbell-Bennerman report, it is jaw-dropping, eye bugging important toward understanding the politics of this thing.

This was knit on #10 needles using Peace Fleece's worsted weight "Negotiation Grey" - it took three skeins and about 10 feet more - a total of around 603 yards. I love that the color is negotiation grey. It reminds me of the efforts of Beyond War - where they say that part of the roadblock to peace is a culture that sees things in black and white - either a good guy or a bad guy, rather than shades of grey - we all have good and bad in us really and anyone can change.

Wings of Peace Shawl

This pattern looks very long but it is repetitive, especially once you get to the long feathers, it's easy but looks complicated. Really. You may find you can knit long stretches without even looking at the pattern.

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND you download a .pdf of this pattern to print out, the formatting below is messy. download now.

Abbreviations:
K - Knit
YO - yarn over
SSK - slip, slip, knit slipped stitches tog.
SSSK - slip, slip, slip, knit three slipped stitches together.
K2 TOG - knit two stitches as if they were one.
K3 TOG - knit three stitches as if they were one.
KFB - knit front and back of loop - making two stitches from one.
K3 INTO 1 - knit, yo, knit in the same stitch - making three stitches from one.
S2KP2– centered double decrease. sl2, k1, p2sso is an abbreviation for slip two, knit one, pass two over. Slip two stitches together as if to knit, knit one stitch, then pass the two slipped stitches over the stitch you just knit. This results in a centered double decrease.
PPSO - pass previous stitch over.
BO - bind off. When it says how many to bind off, count by the number of finished stitch loops you’ve done. When binding off to the next feather - on the purl side the stitch left on the needle should be the first feather stitch you come to. On the knit side you bind off to the last stitch BEFORE the first feather stitch. You’ll see when you get there. In order to keep the edges from curling outward, bind off VERY LOOSELY!

CO 77
Row 1: knit
Row 2: purl
Row 3: knit
Row 4: purl
Row 5: K1, YO, K7, YO, K1,
(YO, K1, YO, K7)X3, (YO, K1)X2, YO, K7, YO, K1,
(YO, K1, YO, K7)X3, (YO, K1)X2, YO, K7, YO, K1
Row 6: purl
Row 7: K2, YO, SSK, K3, K2 TOG, YO, K2,
(YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, K2 TOG)X3, YO, K2,
YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, K2 TOG, YO, K2,
(YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, K2 TOG)X3, YO, K2,
YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, K2 TOG, YO, K2
Row 8: purl
Row 9: K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K, K2TOG, YO, SSK, K3 INTO 1, K, YO K,
(K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK)X3, K3 INTO 1, K, YO, K,
K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K3 INTO 1, K, YO, K,
(K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK)X3, K3 INTO 1, K, YO, K,
K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K3 INTO 1
Row 10: purl
Row 11: K, K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K, K3 INTO 1, K2, YO, K, YO, K2,
(K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K)X3, K3 INTO 1, K2, YO, K, YO, K2,
K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K, K3 INTO 1, K2, YO, K, YO, K2,
(K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K)X3, K3 INTO 1, K2, YO, K, YO, K2,
K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K, K3 INTO 1, K
Row 12: purl
Row 13: KFB,
K, K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO, SSK,
(K, K3 INTO 1, K, K3 TOG, YO, K, YO, SSSK)X4,
K, K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO, SSK,
K, K3 INTO 1, K, K3 TOG, YO, K, YO, SSSK,
K, K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO, SSK,
(K, K3 INTO 1, K, K3 TOG, YO, K, YO, SSSK)X4,
K, K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO, SSK,
K, K3 INTO 1, K, KFB
Row 14: purl
Row 15: K2, YO, K4, K2 TOG,
YO, K2, (YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, K2 TOG)X5,
YO, K2, (YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, K2 TOG)X2,
YO, K2, (YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, K2 TOG)X5,
YO, K2, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K4, YO, K2
Row 16: purl
Row 17: KFB, K2TOG, YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K3 INTO 1, K, YO, K,
(K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK)X5, K3 INTO 1, K, YO, K,
(K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK)X2, K3 INTO 1, K, YO, K,
(K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK)X5, K3 INTO 1, K, YO, K,
K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, KFB
Row 18: purl
Row 19: KFB, K2, YO, K, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K, K3 INTO 1, K2, YO, K, YO, K2,
(K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K)X5,
K3 INTO 1, K2, YO, K, YO, K2,
(K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K)X2,
K3 INTO 1, K2, YO, K, YO, K2,
(K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K)X5,
K3 INTO 1, K2, YO, K, YO, K2,
K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, S2KP2, YO, K, YO, K2, KFB
Row 20: purl
Row 21: KFB, K, K2 TOG, YO, K2, YO, K3, YO, SSK,
(K, K3 INTO 1, K, K3 TOG, YO, K, YO, SSSK)X6,
K, K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO, SSK
(K, K3 INTO 1, K, K3 TOG, YO, K, YO, SSSK)X2,
K, K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO, SSK
(K, K3 INTO 1, K, K3 TOG, YO, K, YO, SSSK)X6,
K, K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO, K2, YO, SSK, K, KFB
Row 22: purl
Row 23: K2, K3 TOG, YO, K3, YO, K2, K2 TOG,
(YO, SSK, K3, K2 TOG, YO, K3)X7, YO, K2,
(YO, SSK, K3, K2 TOG, YO, K3)X2,
YO, SSK, K3, K2 TOG, YO, K2, YO, K3
(YO, SSK, K3, K2 TOG, YO, K3)X6,
YO, SSK, K3, K3 TOG, YO, K3, YO, K3, YO, SSSK, K2
Row 24: purl
Row 25: K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K3 INTO 1, K,
(YO, SSK, K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG)X7,
YO, SSK, K3 INTO 1, K, YO, K, K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG,
(YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG)X2,
YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K3 INTO 1, K, YO, K,
(K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK)X7
K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG, YO, K, K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K
Row 26: purl
Row 27: K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K, K3 INTO 1, K2, YO, K, YO, K2
(K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K)X7, K3 INTO 1, K2, YO, K, YO, K2
(K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K)X3, K3 INTO 1, K2, YO, K, YO, K2,
(K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K)X7, K3 INTO 1, K2, YO, K, YO, K2,
K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK
Row 28: purl
Row 29: (K, YO, SSSK, K, K3 INTO 1, K, K3 TOG, YO)X22, K
Row 30: purl
Row 31: K2, YO, (SSK, K3, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO)X21, SSK, K3, K2 TOG, YO, K2
Row 32: purl
Row 33: K3 INTO 1, K2,
(YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, K3 INTO 1, K2, K2 TOG)X10,
YO, SSK, K, K2TOG, YO, SSK, K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG,
(YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K2, K3 INTO 1)X10,
YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, K2, K3 INTO 1
Row 34: purl
Row 35: K, K3 INTO 1, K2, (K2 TOG, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K3 INTO 1, K3)X10,
K2 TOG, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K, K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG,
(YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K3, K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG)X10, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K2, K3 INTO 1, K
Row 36: purl
Row 37: K2, K3 INTO 1, K4, SSK, (YO, SSK, K, K3 INTO 1, K4, K3 TOG)X10, YO, SSK, K2,
K3 INTO 1, K2, K2 TOG, (YO, SSSK, K4, K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG)X10, YO, K2 TOG, K4,
K3 INTO 1, K2
Row 38: purl
Row 39: SSK, K, K3 INTO 1, K4, K3 TOG, (YO, K3, K3 INTO 1, K4, K3 TOG)X10,
YO, K4, K3 INTO 1, K4, YO, (SSSK, K4, K3 INTO 1, K3, YO)X10,
SSSK, K4, K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG
Row 40: purl
Row 41: K3, (K3 INTO 1, K4, K3 TOG, YO, SSK, K2)X10,
K3 INTO 1, K4, K2 TOG, YO, SSSK, K3, K3 INTO 1, K3, K3 TOG, YO, SSK,
(K4, K3 INTO 1, K2, K2 TOG, YO, SSSK)X10, K4, K3 INTO 1, K3
Row 42: purl
Row 43: (SSK, K2, K3 INTO 1, K4, K3 TOG, YO)X11, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5,
(YO, SSSK, K4, K3 INTO 1, K2, K2 TOG)X11
Row 44: purl
Row 45: (SSK, K2, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG, YO)X11, SSK, K4, K3 INTO 1, K4, K2 TOG,
(YO, SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K2, K2 TOG)X11
Row 46: purl
Row 47: (SSK, K2, K3 INTO 1, K5, K3 TOG, YO)X11, SSK, K4, K3 INTO 1, K4, K2 TOG,
(YO, SSSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K2, K2 TOG)X11
Row 48: purl
Row 49: SAME AS ROW 47
Row 50: purl
Row 51: (K4, K3 INTO 1, K5, K3 TOG, YO)X11, SSK, K4, K3 INTO 1, K4, K2 TOG,
(YO, SSSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K4)X11
Row 52: purl
Row 53: (SSK, K3, K3 INTO 1, K5, K3 TOG, YO)X11, SSK, K4, K3INTO 1, K4, K2 TOG,
(YO, SSSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K3, K2 TOG)X11
Row 54: purl
Row 55: SAME AS ROW 53
Row 56: purl
Row 57: (K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K3 TOG, YO)X11, K6, K3 INTO 1, K6,
(YO, SSSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5)X11
Row 58: purl
Row 59: (SSK, K4, K3 INTO 1, K5, K3 TOG, YO)X11, SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG,
(YO, SSSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K4, K2 TOG)X11
Row 60: purl
Row 61: SAME AS ROW 59
Row 62: purl
Row 63: (K6, K3 INTO 1, K5, K3 TOG, YO)X11, SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG,
(YO, SSSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K6)X11
Row 64: purl
Row 65: (SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K3 TOG, YO)X4,, SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG,
(YO, K, YO, SSK, K11, K2 TOG)X4, YO, K, (YO, SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K3 TOG)X2, YO, SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG, (YO, SSSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG)X2, (YO, K, YO, SSK, K11, K2 TOG)X4, YO, K, YO, SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG, (YO, SSSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG)X4
Row 66: purl
Row 66: purl
Row 67: (SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K3 TOG, YO)X3, SSK, K, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG, YO, K, YO, SSK, K11, K2 TOG, (YO, K3, YO, SSK, K9, K2 TOG)X4, YO, K2, YO, SSSK,
(K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K3 TOG, YO, SSK)X2, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG, YO, SSSK,
K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG, YO, SSSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K3 TOG, YO, K2, YO,
(SSK, K9, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO)X4, SSK, K11, K2 TOG, YO, K,
YO, SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG, (YO, SSSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG)X3
Row 68: purl
Row 69: (SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K6, K2 TOG, YO)X2, SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG, YO, K, YO
SSK, K11, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K9, K2 TOG, (YO, K5, YO, SSK, K7, K2 TOG)X4,
YO, K4, YO, SSK, K11, K2 TOG, YO, K, YO, SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K6, K2 TOG, YO,
SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K6, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG, YO, K, YO
SSK, K11, K2 TOG, YO, K4, YO, (SSK, K7, K2 TOG, YO, K5, YO)X4, SSK, K9, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K11, K2 TOG, YO, K, YO, SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG, (YO, SSK, K6, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG)X2
Row 70: purl
Row 71: (SSK, K12, K2 TOG, YO, K, YO)X2, SSK, K11, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO
SSK, K9, K2 TOG, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K7, K2 TOG, (YO, K7, YO, SSK, K5, K2 TOG)X4
YO, K6, YO, SSK, K9, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K12, K2 TOG,
YO, K, YO, SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG, YO, K, YO, SSK, K12, K2 TOG,
YO, K3, YO, SSK, K9, K2 TOG, YO, K6, YO, (SSK, K5, K2 TOG, YO, K7, YO)X4
SSK, K7, K2 TOG, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K9, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO,
SSK, K11, K2 TOG, (YO, K, YO, SSK, K12, K2 TOG)X2
Row 72: purl
Row 73: (SSK, K10, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO)X2, SSK, K9, K2 TOG, YO, K5, YO
SSK, K7, K2 TOG, YO, K7, YO, SSK, K5, K2 TOG, BO 71, SSK, PPSO,
K7, K2 TOG, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K10, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO
K7, K3 INTO 1, K7, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K10, K2 TOG, YO, K5, YO,
SSK, K7, K2 TOG, BO 71, SSK, PPSO, K5, K2 TOG, YO, K7, YO
SSK, K9, K2 TOG, (YO, K3, YO, SSK, K10, K2 TOG)X2
Row 74a: purl to first section of bound-off stitches
Row 75a: BO 15, SSK, PPSO, K5, K2 TOG, YO, K7, YO, SSK, K7, K2 TOG, (YO, K5, YO, SSK, K8, K2 TOG)X2
Row 76a: purl to first section of bound-off stitches
Row 77a: SSK, K3, K2 TOG, YO, K9, YO, SSK, K5, K2 TOG, (YO, K7, YO, SSK, K6, K2 TOG)X2
Row 78a: purl to first section of bound-off stitches
Row 79a: BO 15, SSK, PPSO, K3, K2 TOG, (YO, K9, YO, SSK, K4, K2 TOG)X2
Row 80a: purl to first section of bound-off stitches
Row 81a: Bind off to end (I did last two K2 TOG to round it more).

Row 74b: attach yarn to middle section so first row will be purl and purl to next bound off section.
Row 75b: SSK, K5, K2 TOG,YO, K7, YO, SSK, K8, K2 TOG, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K6, K3 INTO 1, K6, K2 TOG, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K8, K2 TOG, YO, K7, YO, SSK, K5, K2 TOG
Row 76b: purl
Row 77b: SSK, K3, K2 TOG, YO, K9, YO, SSK, K6, K2 TOG, YO, K7, YO, SSK, K13, K2 TOG, YO, K7, YO, SSK, K6, K2 TOG, YO, K9, YO, SSK, K3, K2 TOG
Row 78b: BO 16, purl the rest
Row 79b: BO 15, SSK, PPSO, K4, K2 TOG, YO, K9, YO, SSK, K11, K2 TOG, YO, K9, YO, SSK, K4, K2 TOG
Row 80b: BO 17, purl the rest
Row 81b: BO 16, SSK, PPSO, K9, K2 TOG
Row 82b: purl
Row 83b: SSK, K7, K2 TOG
Row 84b: purl
Row 85b: SSK, K5, K2 TOG
Row 86b: purl
Row 87b: SSSK, K, K3 TOG
Row 88b: purl 3 together, pass end through.

Row 74c: tie yarn on so next row is purl. BO 16, purl the rest.
Row 75c: (SSK, K8, K2 TOG, YO, K5, YO)X2, SSK, K7, K2 TOG, YO, K7, YO, SSK, K5, K2 TOG
Row 76c: purl
Row 77c: (SSK, K6, K2 TOG, YO, K7, YO)X2, SSK, K5, K2 TOG, YO, K9, YO, SSK, K3, K2 TOG
Row 78c: BO 16, purl the rest.
Row 79c: (SSK, K4, K2 TOG, YO, K9, YO)X2, SSK, K3, K2 TOG
Row 80c: bind off the rest.

Anna Baltzer Wings of Peace

2009-03-29T08:27:00.000-07:00

The next shawl, which I'm designing now, will be called the Anna Baltzer Wings of Peace Shawl. It's going to look like the outstretched wings of a... hmmm... dove? angel? condor? firebird? I guess you can decide.

The Eagle and Condor Prophecy

as told by John Perkins, author Confessions of an Economic Hitman

Nearly every culture I know prophesies that in the late 1990's we entered a period of remarkable transition. At monasteries in the Himalayas, ceremonial sites in Indonesia, and indigenous reservations in North America, from the depths of the Amazon to the peaks of the Andes, and into the ancient Mayan cities of Central America, I have heard that ours is a special moment in human history, and that each of us was born at this time because we have a mission to accomplish.

The titles and the words of the prophecies differ slightly. They tell variously of a New Age, the Third Millennium, the Age of Aquarius, the Beginning of the Fifth Sun, or the end of old calendars and the commencement of new ones. Despite the varying terminologies, however, they have a great deal in common, and “The Prophecy of the Condor and Eagle” is typical. It states that back in the mists of history, human societies divided and took different paths: that of the condor (representing the heart, intuitive and mystical) and that of the eagle (representing the brain, rational and material). In the 1490's, the prophecy said, the two paths would converge and the eagle would drive the condor to the verge of extinction. Then, five hundred years later, in the 1990's a new epoch would begin, one in which the condor and the eagle will have the opportunity to reunite and fly together in the same sky, along the same path. If the condor and eagle accept this opportunity, they will create a most remarkable offspring, unlike any seen before.

“The Prophecy of the Condor and Eagle” can be taken at many levels — the standard interpretation is that it foretells the sharing of indigenous knowledge with the technologies of science, the balancing of yin and yang, and the bridging of northern and southern cultures. However, most powerful is the message it offers about consciousness; it says the we have entered a time when we can benefit from the many diverse ways of seeing ourselves and the world, and that we can use these as a springboard to higher levels of awareness. As human beings we can truly wake up and evolve into a more conscious species.

Heartstones

2009-03-19T03:34:00.000-07:00

Saying Peter was given that name to signify "The Rock" - that is, that he was steadfast and immovable reminds me of this little rustic craft - heartstones. Like God's immovable and steadfast love for us.

If you find yourself sitting outside enjoying the beautiful spring weather and see some roughly heart shaped stones lying at your feet, why not pick some up and rub them against other rocks to see if they can be filed down a bit to a heart shape? I like to make some and leave them for other people to find. Playing at God's game of whimsical surprises when you least expect it.

Not being a rock person since I was around 6, I can't tell you what kind of rocks I used, the kids and I just tested rocks near a stream to see which were happy to be filed into heart shapes against a nice piece of granite from the parking lot.

Porphyrios Slippers

2009-03-12T05:15:00.000-07:00

The chest of prayer shawls at church is still full, a disincentive to knit another shawl just yet. But someone on one of the lists was brainstorming other projects for a prayer shawl ministry, and thought warm slippers might be nice, especially for men who are sick. The key to good knit slippers is to make them from wool and to full them, which means purposely wash them and make them shrink. It blends and lightens the colors, and makes them like a very good thick felt, but still with a tad of stitch definition.

One good thing about a smaller fulled project is you can use up the remains of other wool knitting projects. The slippers in these photos are all made from remnants of sweaters, shawls, and from yarn I got then didn't like for the purpose I'd bought it for. Most of them are stranded, 2 strands of different colors of worsted weight yarn knit on size 10's to get the gauge of 12 - 14 stitches/4 inches.

Wool shrinks about 25% when washed on my long cycle and then dried on high heat. That gives a good smooth sole to the slipper and a nice fuzziness too. It does shrink a little more on the length than the width, so before they're shrunk they may seem too long and narrow. Don't worry, it gets worked out in the wash. If you want to be really careful, knit a test swatch then run it through a wash cycle and see how much it shrinks.

These slippers are dedicated to a man, Elder Porphyrios, a saint in the Greek Orthodox tradition. A friend told me about his book, "Wounded by Love" which is about the best book I've ever read on spirituality. It changed my outlook and I imagine I'll remember this book for years to come. I belive reading this would be a great comfort to someone going through a rough time, as Elder Porphyrios really epitomized someone who "gets" God's love.

This pattern comes out in a women's size 8/9, but it could depend on how much you wash it. I've played around making them larger and smaller proportionately to make children's sizes and it works well. Once you wear the slipper, it kind of adjusts to the size/shape of your foot, and if it's too big just wash it again. Click on the image below to see it larger. NOTE: YOU MUST USE WOOL!! (or some other animal fiber)

To finish, the seam will come up the top of the slipper but first you have to sew across the toe. You also need to sew up the heel of the slipper. How much you wash/dry depends on your machine and what size you are trying to achieve. It will continue to shrink if you wash it again (so handwash once you get it to the perfect size!)

For a child's size 3/4 (woman's size 5/6), I started with 19 stitches, increased the center stitches until I had 9; knit 12 "ridges" of garter, bound off 2 stitches each side, then did stockinette for 24 rows after that, starting the toe decrease at row 18 (after the decrease) and following the same toe decrease style as in the chart - row 18 one decrease each side of the sole, then on rows 20 and 22, a double decrease on each side.

If it's not for a child who likes to slide on wood floors, and traction is an issue, you can make a design on the bottom (after you shrink them!) using fabric puff paint for traction. Let it dry completely before walking in the slippers to avoid unfortunate stains on the floor.

The White Man's Burden

2009-02-05T05:53:00.000-08:00

Or "Why did World Vision Stop Returning My Calls?"

My mind is troubled today and this is why. I've got some questions for a charity I've been supporting for 8 years and they don't answer me. The answers are vitally important to my clear conscience in continuing to support the charity and I don't know what to do.

The questions are, when they give food assistance, do they give donated genetically modified plant seeds, like GM corn, rice, and wheat?

When they give food assistance, do they give powdered milk donated out of the US commodities system?

When they vaccinate the children, do they use donated vaccines that have been withdrawn from the US because of safety issues?

See, the US has a problem of over-production of certain foods, like corn, soy, and milk. Nobody wants the farms to go out of business due to failure to sell their product and inability to repay the loans they've taken out so the US government has a commodities program where they buy up the excess that won't sell in order to keep the farms going in case there is a bad year and their product is needed. So the government commodities program has a huge glut of corn, soy, and dairy products that they sell to the poor out of food distribution centers and give to charity in other countries.

Here's the problem: With the corn, it's all been mixed together. About 30% of the corn grown in the United States is genetically modified. So if clever poor get whole grain corn as a food donation (which lasts longer than milled corn without nutrient loss or spoilage) then they may plant it instead of eating it all. That has happened, and the corn they've planted has wind-pollinated other fields of corn. Monsanto has managed to get most countries to sign on to intellectual property laws that entitle them to take posession of any plant that has genetically altered genes for which they hold the patent. Anyone caught in posession of those plants must either let Monsanto destroy their entire crop, as happened to Percy Schmeiser when his family's strain of canola got wind-pollinated by Monsanto's GM canola (100% of canola is GM these days because of how far the wind carries the pollen) or they must pay a fee to Monsanto every time they plant the seed they've saved from the previous season to use their patented genes (which they don't want in the first place!).

Also as more suspicion about the safety of consuming GM foods grows in light of manipulation of studies on safety, as happened to Arpad Puztai, more countries are being pushed by educated consumers to not import foods containing GM ingredients, so now the farmers of countries where GM contamination has happened are less able to sell their crops on the world market.

The milk is a concern because, for one thing, powdered milk doesn't contain the nutrients of fresh milk, nor the digestive enyzmes and protective probiotics of raw milk that a baby would get from nursing from its mother. But once powdered milk becomes available all kinds of problems ensue - mothers aren't told to boil the water and use contaminated water, especially in disaster areas, and the babies die of diarrhea. Not just babies, diarrhea is one of the worst problems of disaster areas that are trying to get back on their feet, due to lack of clean drinking water. But because we have so much of it, it is often pushed on charities so the government can get "credit" for giving disaster aid.

The last concern arose after I read Robert F. Kennedy's statement before Congress on the use of mercury-containing preservatives in vaccines. Their decision was to let the manufacturers continue to use the vaccines for over a year while they looked for an alternative preservative, and then did not stop them from continuing to sell the vaccines overseas. It got me reading up on vaccine safety and I found some groups saying that different batches of vaccine had much higher rates of adverse effects than others. I started worrying that the contaminated vaccines and the ones containing mercury were being donated overseas instead of thrown out - for tax-credit, refunds, whatever benefit the companies might get from giving them to charity. I have no proof this is happening, but wanted to ask World Vision about the source of their vaccines and whether they tried to only use vaccines that met US safety requirements.

Nobody will answer me. I managed to get on the phone with an Executive Director, who said they were good questions, and he asked me to put them in writing and email them to him so he could forward them to the people within the organization who would know the answers. Then he stopped returning my phone calls and emails and I'm not even sure if he has his job anymore as I can't reach him. He was supposed to be a speaker at an event I organized and he didn't show up nor return my emails and phone call about that. I fear I've gotten him fired.

I don't mis-trust the motives of World Vision, but do worry that they've fallen into the trap of taking the "easy" way instead of continuing to act on conscience. I hate to think ill of them as they seem to want to do good for the poor, but sometimes when organizations get too big they get too bureaucratic to function well anymore. Assuming the worst, I would want to stop contributing to that sort of error and unintended spread of misery. I recently heard of a book, "White Man's Burden" that is supposed to talk about this issue, of us Westerners trying to help but from a top-down "let me tell you what's good for you" kind of way that makes the problems worse. I'm going to read it.

UPDATE: Gracie

2009-01-28T06:18:00.001-08:00

Poor Grace passed away last fall from Vaccine-Associated Sarcoma, but just to share with you all that good things follow bad, I wanted to tell what happened next. My other cat, Jasper seemed lonely and more needy than usual. So when my sister mentioned that when we came down for Christmas we could see the kittens she was working to tame of a feral cat living under her steps, I had the idea in my head that maybe we'd take one home with us. As it turned out, by the time we got there there was only one left - the rest had perished from climbing under the hoods of people's cars to get warm in the cold and then jumping down when the car started. We named her "Itty Bitty Kitty" because at 3 months old she was closer to the size of a 6-week old kitten. It turned out that part of the problem was she had a tooth infection so she had trouble eating.

Jasper adores her as do all the rest of us. At 4 months now, she's about half the size of a normal cat, so it looks like the name will stick. You can see a video of her here on YouTube.

Coming Shawl - Rosary shawl

2008-12-30T05:41:00.000-08:00

Some brilliant knitter on Ravelry recently brought up the topic of incorporating rosary beads into a prayer shawl. It's a truly wonderful idea, and is inspiring me to design a cape-style shawl with a rosary of beads around the front edge.

I don't know how long you'll have to wait, tho as I have some knitting commitments to finish up first including a Christmas lace sweater from some lovely Cascade Ecological wool that is so soft I can't wait to get started!

Holiday Shopping Guide

2008-11-29T12:33:00.000-08:00

Protecting the world for our children is important to me. We need to keep resources and clean water and air for our children and grandchildren. The human race cannot maintain itself if we continue to be so irresponsible about the earth's resources!

Freya shawl

2008-09-26T05:40:00.000-07:00

You can see the Stor Rund Dug doily I adapted this pattern from here.

This makes a gorgeous cape-style shawl, that looks similar to the feather-and-fan types but nicer, I think.

Some of the stitches are a little hard for beginners, but if you watch tutorial videos and keep at them until they look right, you'll be a pro in no time at making them. And don't forget, blocking erases many an uneven stitch!

I did two versions of this one, the first in a baby alpaca worsted that I stranded with a baby mohair laceweight. I used about 500 yards of those on my #10 circulars to make a shawl that measured around 21" long from neck to bottom. Then I did it on some mill end Caron Simply Soft and since I'm not sure how much I used I can't share that, but I made that one even larger so I could repeat the diamonds at the bottom edge.

I've decided to dedicate this shawl to a friend, Freya Koss, who, after curing her health problems that she found were due to mercury in her dental fillings has become a tireless worker to educate the public on the dangers of mercury in your teeth. It is a Danish pattern and Freya is a Danish name! :)

Here's the pattern (click here to download a printable .pdf of this):

ABBREVIATIONS:
K = knit
YO = yarn over
Slip = slip stitch from left needle to right without knitting.
K2TOG = knit 2 together as if they are one stitch
P2TOG = purl 2 together as if they are one stitch
SSK = slip, slip, knit
SSP = Slip 1 k-wise, slip another k-wise. Return slipped sts to left needle. p2tog tbl: Insert right needle up into back loops of the two stitches and purl them together from this position. (I find it easier to pass them from the right to left through the back loop and then purl them together as if they are one regular purl stitch.)
S2K1psso = Slip the next two stitches at the same time onto the right-hand needle knitwise, knit the next stitch, and pass the two slipped stitches at the same time over the knit stitch. It makes a somewhat raised but perfectly formed knit stitch in the centre of a pair of decreased stitches which slope towards it symmetrically
C** = This is the only hard stitch - a double decrease where the center stitch is on top when viewed from the right side. To do it, purl 1, slip the next 2 together through the back loop (all three are now on the right needle), pass all three to left needle, slip the right needle over the first stitch and under the next two to pass them over the first stitch (the one you purled). The remaining stitch is still on the right needle, so pass it to the left.
()x = knit text in brackets as many times as indicated after the "x"
[]x = repeat enclosed instructions as many times as indicated after the "x"
*-* = repeat enclosed instructions till end of round.
All rows not mentioned are knit plain (knit on knit side; purl on purl side).

Cast on 40 stitches.
Row 1: P
Row 6: K3, (YO, K1) x 35, K2
Row 12: K2, (K7, YO, K1, YO)x8, K9
Row 14: K2, (K2TOG, K3, SSK, YO, K3, YO)x8, K2TOG, K3, SSK, K2
Row 16: K2, (K2TOG, K1, SSK, YO, SSK, YO, K1, YO, K2TOG, YO)x8, K2TOG, K1, SSK, K2
Row 18: K2, S2K1psso, (YO, SSK, YO, K3, YO, K2TOG, YO, S2K1psso )x8, K2
Row 20: K2, (K2, YO, K2TOG, YO, S2K1psso , YO, SSK, YO, K1)x8, K3
Row 21: P7, (slip, P9)x7, slip, P7
Row 22: K2, (K3, YO, K2TOG, K1, SSK, YO, K2)x8, K3
Row 23: P7, (slip, P9)x7, slip, P7
Row 24: K2, (K4, YO, S2K1psso , YO, K3)x8, K3
Row 26: K2, (K1, YO)x4, [S2K1psso , (YO, K1)x7, YO]x7, S2K1psso , (YO, K1)x4, K2
Row 28: K9, (S2K1psso , K13)x7, S2K1psso , K9
Row 29: P8, (C**, P11)x7, C**, P8
Row 30: K2, (K1, YO)x5, [S2K1psso , (YO, K1)x9, YO]x7, S2K1psso , (YO, K1)x5, K2
Row 31: P11, (C**, P17)x7, C**, P11
Row 32: K10, (S2K1psso , K15)x7, S2K1psso , K10
Row 33: P9, (C**, P13)x7, C**, P9
Row 34: K2, (K1, YO)x6, [S2K1psso , (YO, K1)x11, YO]x7, S2K1psso , (YO, K1)x5, YO, K2
Row 35: P13, (C**, P21)x7, C**, P13
Row 36: K12, (S2K1psso , K19)x7, S2K1psso , K12
Row 37: P11, (C**, P17)x7, C**, P11
Row 38: K10, (S2K1psso , K15)x7, S2K1psso , K10
Row 39: P2, (P1, YO)x7, [C**, (YO, P1)x13, YO]x7, C**, (YO, P1)x6, YO, P3
Row 40: K15, (S2K1psso , K25)x7, S2K1psso , K15
Row 41: P14, (C**, P23)x7, C**, P14
Row 42: K13, (S2K1psso , K21)x7, S2K1psso , K13
Row 43: P12, (C**, K19)x7, C**, K12
Row 44: K2, (K1, YO, K2TOG, K5, SSK, YO)x16, K3
Row 46: K2, (K2, YO, K2TOG, K3, SSK, YO, K1)x16, K3
Row 48: K2, (K1, YO, K2TOG, YO, K2TOG, K1, SSK, YO, SSK, YO)x16, K3
Row 50: K2, (K2, YO, K2TOG, YO, S2K1psso , YO, SSK, YO, K1)x16, K4
Row 52: K2, [K1, (SSK, YO)x2, K1, (YO, K2TOG)x2]x16, K3
Row 54: K2, K2TOG, (YO, SSK, YO, K3, YO, K2TOG, YO, S2K1psso )x15,YO, SSK, YO, K3, YO, K2TOG, YO, SSK, K2
Row 55: P2, (slip, P9)x16,slip, P2
Row 56: K2, (K1, SSK, YO, K5, YO, K2 TOG)x16, K3
Row 58: K2, K2TOG, (YO, K7, YO, S2K1psso )X15, YO, K7, YO, SSK, K2
Row 59: P2, (slip, P9)x16,slip, P2
Row 60: K2, K2TOG, [(YO, K1)X7, YO,S2K1psso ]X15, (YO, K1)X7, YO, SSK, K2
Row 61: P2, (slip, P15)x16, slip, P2
Row 62: K2, K2TOG, K13, (S2K1psso , K13)x15, SSK, K2
Row 63: P2, P2TOG, P11, (C**, P11)x15, P2TOG, P2
Row 64: K2, K2TOG, (YO, K1)x9, [S2K1psso , (YO, K1)x9), YO]x15, SSK, K2
Row 65: P2, P2TOG, P17, (C**, P17)x15, P2TOG, P2
**If you aren’t counting stitches anymore because you’ve grasped the pattern, do count them every few rows. At this point it is easy to miss a YO or somehow end up with too many stitches which can get magnified as you go on and is really hard to repair if it’s gone on for too long! If you find your stitch count off, don’t despair! You can easily fudge this pattern so it looks good to all but the most discerning eye. For too many stitches, in the S2K1psso, you can slip 3 instead of two to eat an extra stitch. For too few, you can do a K2TOG instead of the S2K1psso at the end of the repeat to create a stitch for the next row.
Row 66: K2, K2TOG, K15, (S2K1psso , K15)x15, SSK, K2
Row 67: P2, P2TOG, P13, (C**, P13)x15, P2TOG, P2
Row 68: K2, K2TOG, (YO, K1)x11, YO, [S2K1psso , (YO, K1)x11), YO]x15, SSK, K2
Row 69: P2, P2TOG, P21, (C**, P21)x15, P2TOG, P2
Row 70: K2, K2TOG, K19, (S2K1psso , K19)x15, SSK, K2
Row 71: P2, P2TOG, P17, (C**, P17)x15, P2TOG, P2
Row 72: K2, K2TOG, K15, (S2K1psso , K15)x15, SSK, K2
Row 73: P2, P2TOG, (YO, P1)x13, YO, [C**, (YO, P1)x13), YO]x15, P2TOG, P2
Row 74: K2, K2TOG, K25, (S2K1psso , K25)x15, SSK, K2
Row 75: P2, P2TOG, P23, (C**, P23)x15, P2TOG, P2
Row 76: K2, K2TOG, K21, (S2K1psso , K21)x15, SSK, K2
Row 77: P2, P2TOG, P19, (C**, P19)x15, P2TOG, P2
Row 78: K2, (K1, YO, K2TOG, K5, SSK, YO)x32, K3
Row 80: K2, (K2, YO, K2TOG, K3, SSK, YO, K1)x32, K3
Row 82: K2, [K1, (YO, K2TOG)x2, K1, (SSK, YO)x2]x32, K3
Row 84: K2, (K2, YO, K2TOG, YO, S2K1psso , YO, SSK, YO, K1)x32, K3
Row 86: K2, [K1, (K2TOG, YO)x2, K1, (YO, SSK)x2]x32, K3
Row 88: K2, K2TOG, (YO, K2TOG, YO, K3, YO, SSK, YO, S2K1psso )x31, YO, K2TOG, YO, K3, YO, SSK, YO, SSK, K2
Row 90: K2, (K1, K2TOG, YO, K5, YO, SSK)x32, K3
Row 92: K2, K2TOG, YO, K7, YO, (S2K1psso , YO, K7, YO)x31, SSK, K2
Row 94: K2, K2TOG, (YO, K1)x7, [S2K1psso , (YO, K1)x7, YO]x31, SSK, K2
Row 96: Like row 62, but with 32 repeats.
Row 97-111: Like row 63-77, but with 32 repeats.
Row 111-123: Like row 78-90 but with 64 repeats instead of 32.

Many thanks to YarnOver http://www.yarnover.net for translating this beautiful pattern from the Danish! For the doily pattern, which could make a lovely round blanket, see http://www.yarnover.net/patterns/doilies/kunststrik/storrund.html

Shawls for Grace

2008-09-02T07:08:00.001-07:00

Today as my little kitty dies of VAS - Vaccine-Associated Sarcoma, I'd like to dedicate a pattern of sorts in her memory.

Gracie was a fighter. I got her when, as a volunteer in the Red Cross Disaster Services Unit I responded to a house fire. The home was burned to the ground and the family - parents and several children, some quite young, were being sent to a hotel for the night. A friendly and quite pregnant little cat was threading through all of our legs, purring loudly the whole time we did the paperwork and made arrangements. As I petted her, the woman said I could have her, as she was their cat and they couldn't take her with them. I took her home and she had kittens the next day in my basement.

We had our differences over the years. She bullied my beloved Ricky (male cat) unmercifully. She liked to bring live birds through the pet door to kill them in the bathroom where the mirrors confused them. Once she brought in a live snake during a dinner party and left it under the table, quickly clearing the room. But looking back I can see the humor in some of it now.

I'm trying to tell myself she's not suffering the pangs of death for nothing, but they are birth pains toward a new life. I believe, as George MacDonald did, that animals don't just pass away into nothingness but are also welcomed into God's warm embrace at the end.

The Shawl:

This may perhaps be the easiest shawl pattern ever. You simply find a repeating lace pattern you like and keep going. I think good shawl dimensions are 18 - 22 inches wide by at least 36 inches long. It takes at least 380 yards, closer to 500 if you want to make it really nice. The pattern can be found in books or online. My favorite sources for lace patterns are the library - where they have books like Stitchionary that are filled with lace patterns. I prefer size 10 needles so it doesn't take forever to knit the shawl and I can use larger yarns - sport, DK, etc. and still have it with a lacy, open effect.

To get the gauge, knit one repetition of the pattern through once (in this way you can also see if you can do all the stitches!). Wash and block it and then measure it to see how many repeats you'll need to get the desired width. For length, I usually keep going until I've used up all the yarn. I don't like tassels because I worry they won't hold up over time and will make the shawl start to look shabby.

To class it up, you can add a knit-on or crocheted on edging on all sides. You can find many of them in pattern books as well.

I wanted to put in more pictures of some examples but evidently my printer just discovered it doesn't support Vista and no longer uploads photos! GRRR!

Mind wandering

2008-08-30T05:54:00.000-07:00

If life is like a giant buffet, where you can choose from the offerings - seductive foods that you know will lead to your eventual ill health or indigestion or nourishing foods that give you strength, don't most of us sample some of each? Not too much of the bad, but we don't want to do without them either.

So if we make our choices, some of which further the work of Satan, but some further the work of God, but we don't want to miss out on the seductiveness of what Satan has to offer completely, aren't we in the middle? Aren't most of us?

Some few choose only God's offering - Francis of Assisi, Elder Porphyrios, St. Antony the Desert Father. I guess some choose mostly the other way too - the notable villains of our history. I do wonder what happens to those of us in the middle.

I had a dream once that I was in a Road Runner cartoon and I fell off the cliff, hit the bottom, and died. I went to Heaven, but it wasn't what I expected. I had to live in a humble room with my mother. There was a TV but only wholesome shows - no action, violence, or even villains. The food was all wholesome - fruit and bread, I think. Not even meat. No oreo cookies, ever again. I have to say I was disappointed. When I awoke, the dream stayed with me, and this was at least 15 years ago. I wonder sometimes, if heaven doesn't suit me, what does that mean about me? Am I too worldly?

Then the major kicker: "What if we all go to the same place, but for some it's Heaven for some it's Hell?"

Momma T sweater

2008-08-23T10:26:00.000-07:00

There are a lot of charities that are asking for hand knit wool sweaters in higher gauge, durable wool; sending them to places from Mongolia to Afghanistan to reservations in the U.S. - places where it gets cold, the people have little or no heat in their homes, and they can't afford warm coats. I have a wool sweater I made for myself out of this same yarn that I practically LIVE in all winter - it doesn't overheat you indoors but is warm enough for going out in the cold as well, so I know the power of a good sweater!

When knitting for charities like Warm Woolies, Knit for Kids or Afghans for Afghans (yes, they're asking for sweaters now!), you want to put durable over almost everything else. This is a piece of clothing that will get used, passed on, and used some more, daily, and maybe even worn to bed. So pass over the soft yarns that would pill with that kind of use and get the sturdier but coarser yarns and the recipients will thank you. The old-fashioned wool can last for generations and look almost as good as new. My favorite sweater looks better now than when I knit it, because it's fully bloomed and has a fuzzy-ness to it that I love.

Here is a pattern, dedicated to Mother Teresa (Shane Claiborne called her "Momma T" and it stuck in my head) who really needs no introduction. I made it with two strands knit together of a DK weight yarn that I hand dyed. The gauge was 13 stitches = 4" on #10 needles. I used around 800 yards, probably less.

Most of the charities I saw this year were asking for a size 10 child's sweater. I guess that's a popular size; or maybe the smaller ones are faster to knit so they get more of them.

The directions to dye the wool are below (or click here). This makes a very nice, colorful sweater. You don't need to do it in a rainbow, different shades of a few colors would work well too.

BACK:
To begin, cast on 43 stitches. Do 6 rows of k2, p2 ribbing (or whatever kind of ribbing you like). After that, do stockinette, making a stitch by knitting in both sides of the stitch on each end of the row on alternating 6th and 8th rows for a gentle increase up the sides.

The pattern for the colors I used was 10 rows using both skeins of the same color, then 4 rows of one strand the color I was just using and 1 strand of the next color (for instance, between the green and the blue I'd use a strand of green and a strand of blue for 4 rows). The body was 14" wide by 18" high. It took me 80 rows, so I finished on the 10th row of the yellow (last color). When you get to the top, count your stitches. The neck opening should be 4", or 13 stitches. Subtract 13 from your total and divide the remainder by 2 - bind off that many stitches on each side, putting the middle 13 on a stitch holder (if you had an odd number of stitches left after you subtracted the 13, leave 14 in the center.)

FRONT:
Knit same as for back but when you get about 3" from the top make a neck opening. Count the stitches on your needles and subtract 5 from the total. Divide the remainder by 2 (if it was an odd number subtract 6 from the total). Add the 5(6) back to the number you got (if you have 75, subtract 5 to get 70, half of that is 35, add the 5 back and you have 40). Knit that many stitches then transfer the rest to a stitch holder (I use a contrasting yarn for a stitch holder and the darning needle to transfer the stitches on, 3-4 at a time). From now on, do the increases on the shoulder side, and on the neck side alternate knit and purl like a rib stitch the last 4 stitches so it doesn't curl. When you get to the top, bind off as many as you did for the back on a side and put the rest on a stitch holder.

Then pick up the ones from the other side of the front from your stitch holder, plus 5(6) from the neck edge from the same row (from the front, pick up one side of each loop; or from the back, pick up the tops of the stitches, your choice). Starting at the shoulder and leaving a tail of yarn, knit two rows like the other side. When you get back where you started you can tie the loose end of yarn off to the working yarn and then continue to the top.

Sew the front to the back and transfer all the neck stitches to a circular needle. Knit one row, making stitches every 3rd stitch (unless it is at the shoulder seam) by picking up a stitch from under the working stitch and knitting one into that (lifted increase if you want to look it up). Do 4 more rows and bind off loosly.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 20 stitches. Do 4 rows of k2, p2 ribbing then stockinette stitch. The color pattern for the sleeves is 8 rows of both strands the same color, with 3 rows of one strand each color for the transition. Every 4th row, increase at each end of the row by knitting in both sides of the stitch. They should wind up about 14" long by 13" wide at the top and about 5" wide at the cuff. (They are extra long in case the child doesn't have mittens!)

To assemble, find the center of the top of the sleeve. Tie or pin it to the center seam of the shoulder with right sides together. Stitch one side of the sleeve on. See where on the strip pattern it ends and start the other side at the same place on the stripe on the other side of the sweater and sew that side on. When the sleeves are on, sew up the sides, from the cuff of the sleeve to the bottom of the sweater. (Hand)Wash and block and see your beautiful results!

Dying wool

2008-08-21T02:53:00.001-07:00

If you've read this, you know I love wool yarn. Another cool thing about wool yarn is that it is easy to dye using food colorings! I first heard of this thanks to the book "Stitch 'n' Bitch" where they have the pattern for the Kool-Aid dyed sweater. I googled it and found a whole world of hand-dying using edibles! Then someone told me you can use the food colorings sold for cake icing as well so I just had to try that!

[I wasn't going to put anything but shawls on this blog, but this pattern is coming together unnaturally well, almost like I'm getting a little help from a Good Shepherd, so I thought it would be a good chance to highlight some of the other charitable knitting groups out there in case you get tired of knitting shawls (or the chest of shawls gets full, like at my church at the moment!). The pattern to make a child's sweater using two strands of hand-dyed DK wool will come next, but this entry will be on how to dye wool.]

My favorite method of dying wool is using Kool-Aid, because you get bright, vivid colors and it's very easy. Plus, the wool smells fruity for a long time afterward!

You can over-dye pretty much any animal fibers with these methods. My favorite yarn for dying is the inexpensive wool yarn I get on ebay on cones. It doesn't have to be white but should be very pale, and browns or greys work the best unless you're wanting to use the color it comes in (like pink could be dyed shades of blue, red, or yellow to get purples, darker red, or salmon/orange). I find a light tan color is completely hidden under dyes, just the colors are a little muted instead of vivid (but some do come out vivid, too!) I've successfully dyed a medium brown as well, to red, green, and blue and it turned out very well - you'd never guess it had started out as brown.

The sweater I'll give the instructions for in the next entry uses stranding, so I did two hanks of each color. This turns out really nice, especially when they are a little different shade from each other - it gives nice depth, and when there are lighter/darker patches in the hanks from our inexperienced dye-jobs, that works to our advantage to give the stockinette some texture.

The first step is to get the yarn into long, loose hanks so the dye gets access to al the strands. I've used two methods of making up for my lack of a swift so far, one is wrapping the yarn around the open cabinet doors in the kitchen. The other is to wrap it around cardboard boxes. Whatever you use, there will be a lot of squeezing force after awhile, so it has to be strong. Doing each hank a standard number of wraps, like 100 worked well for me, but you could just "eyeball it" as well. Once you've gotten your hank wrapped, you'll want to slide it off of whatever you used and use the two loose ends to loosely tie around the hank. Cut a piece of yarn or use a scrap of yarn to loosely tie around the other end as well. This helps prevent your yarn getting tangled during the washing, dying, squeezing, etc.

The cone yarn comes with a coating of lubricants or something, so the next step will get that off and show you how fuzzy the yarn really is (off the cone it often seems like bailing twine!) So you fill a bucket or dishpan with warm soapy water and soak the yarn.

Next get a medium-sized cooking pot and fill it half-way with water. Add a splash of vinegar and your dye and bring it to a boil. If you're using Kool-Aid, 1-3 packets per hank is what I do. The more you add the more vivid the color. You could experiment and try one hank with just one, and one with three. Since you're stranding, it won't hurt anything. If you're using icing dye, I added about 1/8 to 1/4 tsp per hank. It's ok to mix colors. I only had the primary colors so I mixed red and blue to get purple, yellow and red for orange, etc.

Once it's boiling, squeeze, rinse, and squeeze a hank of yarn and carefully add it to the pot, rearranging it a few times so all of it gets to the dye. If you're using Kool-Aid, the water will quickly become clear or milky. That means all the dye has been absorbed. With the icing dye, that didn't happen but the yarn seemed to absorb all it wanted within 5 minutes. If you smell a burning smell, take the pot off the burner, it could be the yarn on the bottom of the pot getting singed.

When the yarn has soaked up as much of the dye as it wants, take pot and yarn to the sink (where there is NO other yarn because it will make spots on it!) and lift the yarn out of the pot and let it drain for a bit, then I hang it over the faucet to let it cool enough to touch. While I'm waiting, I get the next pot of dye ready. I don't put in fresh water each time, but you need to when you move from one color to a different primary color. You need to add a little bit more vinegar and top off the water from time to time, and add more dye, of course.

Once you can touch the yarn you've just dyed, rinse it well in warm tap water, squeeze it well, and hang it to dry. I like to dry it in the sun outside because that is pretty fast. You can hang it over a broom handle, on a clothes line, over the branches of a tree (but then it might not be sunny!), use your creativity.

The last time I did this, there was no mess to clean up, other than the pot and spoon I used. Not too messy! :)

Yes this is a lot of work, but it is FUN! And it's a great way to recycle ugly or unwanted yarn to fabulous yarn!

To Knit the Annie Payson Shawl

2008-08-05T06:15:00.000-07:00

I used Mode Dea Silk 'N Wool blend on #10's. Each square took slightly less than one skein, which contained 154 yards, so the three squares took 3 skeins - around 450 yards, for an 18" X 4.5' shawl.

To find out about Annie Payson Call, to whom this shawl is dedicated, see the previous entry.

I knit the three squares separately then sewed them together. I have a thing about not wanting the crosses to be upside down. If you really hate piecing tho you can just start at the end and knit to the other in one long shawl. I'm sure it will look good that way too.

To begin, cast on 59 stitches. Knit a row, purl a row and you're ready for the pattern. I've just charted it because it's so straight forward. But do one stitch at the beginning and end of each row, knit on the knit side and purl on the purl side.

I did the pattern like this - first repetition: cross, tulip, cross; second repetition: tulip, cross, tulip; third repetition: cross, tulip, cross. That made a square. If you want to continue, just keep staggering them. I guess this would make a nice afghan too if a group wanted to get each person to contribute a square.

Click on the picture to see it larger.

It's fun to block each square as you finish it, to see what it's going to look like. In case you've never blocked lace before, here's a handy guide from Subversive Knitting. I like to pin the lace out on the guest bed, on the vellux blanket because it doesn't soak up any moisture from the damp yarn. Then I put the ceiling fan on and ask the kids not to jump on the bed today. :)

New shawl coming - Annie Payson Shawl!

2008-08-02T18:04:00.000-07:00

Annie Payson Call was a writer for Ladies' Home Journal in the 1920's who wrote some remarkable pieces that are still inspirational today. Not much is known about her but you can get a glimpse of her wonderful spirit through her writings. Many of them are available for free at the Soil and Health Library.

She teaches how to change oneself to bring peace to the family and then to the world with timeless and gentle advice that is especially relevant (and needed) today.

Christian Killing (of acrylic, that is!)

2008-07-20T05:05:00.000-07:00

There are some wonderful blogs out there on how to do various things in knitting that you wouldn't otherwise find out about. This is one of my new favorites - how to block acrylic yarn when you use it in lace knitting.

http://rainyknits.blogspot.com/2006/08/blocking-acrylic.html

I personally prefer using wool for comfort shawls, because of the "lamb of God" thing maybe, and "good shepherd" - there are a lot of sheep references! Plus it has an earthiness to it, even when dyed bright colors, and it is a link to the past that reminds me that my problems are nothing new, people have been around a long time, and there is a continuity. Then for comfort shawls for people who are bedridden I always think about how wool can prevent bedsores because of its ability to cushion so nicely.

Still, there are times for using acrylic. Wool dissolves in acid, so if it gets vomited on it will get holes. Not good for someone going through chemo, or babies either for that matter. Some people do have allergies to it as well, and some may need something that can be easily laundered, for instance someone with an incontinence problem. So in our prayer shawl ministries let's give them the best that modern technology can offer - man-made fibers!

When you apply hot steam to acrylic, called "killing the acrylic", the fibers relax and then set in the new shape. You must be careful because too much heat can melt them together. But with a soft yarn like Caron Simply Soft, it makes it even softer, with a nice sheen and a lovely drape. And the good thing is, once you kill it, it stays that way! So it can be washed and dried and never needs to be blocked again! The other nice thing is if there is a texture in the pattern you like un-blocked, with acrylic you can block it selectively. I'm working on the Dorothy Day shawl right now (and haven't found any errors yet, hooray!) and am thinking of not blocking the candle flames, so they can stay puffy.

I just heard of an even softer yarn called "Oh My!" and will look into that one!

LIA Sun Shawl

2008-07-18T22:11:00.001-07:00

This shawl is dedicated to Tami Duncan and her foundation, the Lyme Induced Autism Foundation. Tami's son was one of those growing number of children, disproportionately boys, who are being diagnosed with autism. But Tami found out that the symptoms of lyme and those of autism in children can be easily confused, especially when the lyme affects the nervous system - children can become hypersensitive to stimuli or insensitive to it; their mental functioning is impaired and they do their best to cope with a world they cannot describe to those of us not experiencing it.

Because of the serious threat of children with lyme being misdiagnosed with autism and going years without treatment, she started a foundation to bring awareness to this problem - lyme is, after all, treatable while there is no cure for autism. You can find out more about it on their website: www.lymeinducedautism.com (they have especially good conferences with top doctors and scientists from all over the world presenting, and make recordings of the lectures available to those who couldn't go!)

Through lyme treatment, which can take one to two years, the children who had previously been diagnosed with autism can make such huge developmental strides that they will no longer meet the criteria for autism or sometimes even for autism-related disorders. That makes this shawl seem appropriate for this cause - having a child who has autism come into their personality and make connections with the world is like watching a sunrise; a new beginning, and that is what Tami has done for her son and is trying to help other families do as well.

But as a prayer shawl, you don't need to give it to someone affected by autism, give it to anyone who likes sunshine or could use a little of it!
The Pattern
Gauge is very important here if you want a shawl in a grown-up size. I used about 500 yards of Peace Fleece worsted weight on #10's and got 4 rows per inch, before blocking - any less and it will be a very short shawl, so up the needles a size or more if you have more than 4 rows per inch. This project was started to use up the yarn left over from the HomeAID shawl (below).

This can easily be made into a round blanket - you just need to start on double pointed needles and go around - the shawl would be round if I hadn't left out the "wedge" between two of the sunbeams, so the pattern would be a tidy 8 repeats instead of 7 with the last sunbeam tacked on. But since I've never knitted on double pointed needles, I can't tell you how to begin it, sorry!

I think this would look nice in a fuzzy pale yellow; also it would be cool to use three strands and start with all yellow, then change one to white, then another to white and end with all three white; or something similar! If the gauge is big enough, this looks good without blocking so would be good for an acrylic as well, but the sides would curl in some so an edging pattern may need to be used or just the two edges steam blocked.

Every other row is purled.

Cast on 24 stitches.

Row 1: knit
Row 2: purl
Row 3: knit
Row 4: purl
Row 5: (k1, L, k1) 8 times [L = lifted increase - knit one, then pick up the stitch under the one you just knit and knit into that one as well.]
Row 7: (k1, L, k2) 8 times
Row 9: (k2, L, k2) 8 times
Row 11: (k2, L, k3) 8 times
Row 13: (k3, L, k3) 8 times
Row 15: (k3, L, k4) 8 times
Row 17: (k4, L, k4) 8 times
Row 19: (k4, L, k5) 8 times
Row 21: (k5, L, k5) 8 times
Row 23: (k5, L, k6) 8 times
Row 25: (k13, yo) 7 times, k13
Row 27: (k2 tog, k11, yo, k, yo) 7 times, k2 tog, k11
Row 29: (k12, yo, k, k2 tog, yo) 7 times, k12
Row 31: (k10, ssk, yo, k4, yo) 7 times, k10, ssk
Row 33: (k11, yo, ssk, k4, yo) 7 times, k11
Row 35: (k2 tog, k9, yo, k7, yo) 7 times, k2 tog, k9
Row 37 (k10, yo, k7, k2 tog, yo) 7 times, k10
Row 39: (k8, ssk, yo, k, yo, k9, yo) 7 times, k8, ssk
Row 41: (k9, yo, k3 tog*, yo, k7, ssk, yo, k, yo) 7 times, k9 *[k3 tog for the rest of this pattern means slip two together, knit1, pass two slipped stitches over - so the center stitch comes out on top.]
----------------THIS IS WHERE I CHANGED TO ORANGE-----------------------
Row 43: (k2 tog, k7, yo, ssk, k, yo, k8, yo, ssk, k, yo) 7 times, k2 tog, k7
Row 45: (k8, yo, k2, k2 tog, yo, k2 tog, k6, yo, k2, k2 tog, yo) 7 times, k8
Row 47: (k6, ssk, yo, ssk, k3, yo, k7, yo, ssk, k3, yo) 7 times, k6, ssk
Row 49: (k7, yo, k4, k2 tog, yo, k5, ssk, yo, k4, k2 tog, yo) 7 times, k7
Row 51: (k2 tog, k5, yo, ssk, k5, yo, k6, yo, ssk, k5, yo) 7 times, k2 tog, k5
Row 53: (k6, yo, k, yo, k2 tog, k3, k2 tog, yo, k2 tog, k4, yo, k, yo, k2 tog, k3, k2 tog, yo) 7 times, k6
Row 55: (k4, ssk, yo, k3 tog, yo, k5, yo, k, yo, k5, yo, k3 tog, yo, k5, yo, k, yo) 7 times, k4, ssk
Row 57: (k5, yo, k, k2 tog, yo, k3, ssk, yo, k, k2 tog, yo, k3, ssk, yo, k, k2 tog, yo, k3, ssk, yo, k, k2 tog, yo) 7 times, k5
----------------THIS IS WHERE I CHANGED TO RED------------------------------
Row 59: (k2 tog, k3, (yo, ssk, k2, yo, k4) 3 times, yo, ssk, k2, yo, ssk, k3) 7 times, k2 tog, k3
Row 61: (k4, (yo, ssk, k, k2 tog, yo, k2 tog, k2) 3 times, yo, ssk, k, k2 tog, yo) 7 times, k4
Row 63: (k2, ssk, (yo, k, yo, k2, k2 tog, yo, k3) 3 times, yo, k, yo, k2, k2 tog, yo) 7 times, k2, ssk
Row 65: (k3, (yo, k3 tog, yo, k2 tog, k, yo, k, yo, k2 tog, k) 3 times, yo, k3 tog, yo, k2 tog, k) 7 times, k3
Row 67: (k2 tog, k2, (yo, k3 tog, yo, k2) 7 times, yo, k3 tog, yo) 7 times, k2 tog,
k2
---------------------THIS IS WHERE I CHANGED TO BLACK--------------------------
Row 69: (k2, (yo, k, yo, k2 tog, yo, k2 tog, yo, k3 tog, yo, k2 tog) 3 times, yo, k, yo, k2 tog, yo, k2 tog, yo, k3 tog) 7 times, k2
Row 71: (k2 tog, yo, k3 tog, (yo, k2 tog) 18 times, yo) 7 times, k2 tog
Row 73: (k2 tog) repeat until last stitch, k <-- I didn't do that one but wish I did!
Row 75: purl
Row 77: bind off very loosly

Revised and renumberd on 4/12/09

The Sun is Coming!

2008-07-15T06:07:00.001-07:00

If you're doing the HomeAID shawl in the colors I did, save your extra yarn!!!! I got an inspiration and am busy designing a sun shawl with the same colors - a big yellow sun with sunbeams coming down. Talk about a warm, happy image!

Here comes the sun
Here comes the Son
The sun brings warmth and light to the darkness
The Son brings warmth and light to the darkness
"You are my sunshine"
Let your light shine!

What better to bring a little lightness to someone in despair than to give them the sun (Son)?

I could go on but I'll go knit instead.

SUNRISE WITH JESUS

Oh what a glorious dawning
Oh what a breaking of day
When Jesus came into my hearts door
And drove all the shadows away.

Sunrise with Jesus
Walk with him all the way through
Sunset at evening
Reflecting it’s glorious hue.
Rainbows and flowers
Oh for the smile of his face
Wonderful Jesus
Oh tell of His marvelous grace

The sun has now risen to noon time
the flowers of life are in bloom
for He who illumines my pathway
Dispels all the darkness and gloom

Sunrise with Jesus
Walk with Him all the way through
Sunset at evening
Reflecting it’s glorious hue.
Rainbows and flowers
Oh for the smile of His face
Wonderful Jesus
Oh tell of His marvelous grace.

The evening of life is approaching
The sun must go down in the west
The beauty and splendor of sunset
Eternities dawn with the blessed

Sunrise with Jesus
Walk with Him all the way through
Sunset at evening
Reflecting it’s glorious hue.
Rainbows and flowers
Oh for the smile of his face
Wonderful Jesus
Oh tell of His marvelous grace

Eschol Cosby

1910-2008

Navdanya shawl is debugged!

2008-07-12T05:13:00.000-07:00

The borders on the edges aren't as messy looking in real life as the camera made it appear!

I finished the second knitting of the Navdanya shawl, using the directions I posted up here and I believe I've found and corrected all the bugs, so it should be working great now!
This is the part that gave me the most grief!

This one was knit in recycled Cashmere I got at the Twice Sheared Sheep on ebay - I used around 1600 yards but knit with three strands together for most of it - the one skein was only 330 yards and when I used that up, about 12 rows from the end, I knit on with just two strands for a lacier edge.

I really love how this turned out in a lacier yarn! Thus far all the pictures I've seen are of it in the Worsted Weight. This was knit on size 10 circulars, and cost around $23!

Thank you to my friend Martha who was willing to pose in this shawl for me! She raises dairy sheep and sells the most incredible cheeses at grower's markets in Chester Co. PA! Her brand name is Highland Farms.

How to knit the HomeAID Shawl

2008-07-12T04:51:00.001-07:00

Loosly inspired by South African art, this shawl is dedicated to HomeAID for Africa.

Not everyone wants a shawl that is earth tones, pastel, or something "quiet". There are lively, colorful people who would more appreciate a lively colorful shawl, even in times of trouble. Maybe it reminds them of life instead of grief. If you want to knit a shawl for such a person, this may be the pattern for you!

There are a lot of color changes in this. If you use wool yarn you can felt the two ends together instead of tying a knot. This is what I did: I knit to the end of the row where the color change was to occur then cut the yarn with about 3/4 inch hanging past the last stitch. Then I un-knit the last 3 stitches, putting them back on the other needle so I'd have long enough yarn to work with. I frayed the ends of the old and new color yarn, untwisting and pulling the strands apart then wet them and rubbed them together in my hands until I felt heat from friction. If you do it right, the join is as strong as the rest of the yarn! You overlap them about 3/4 inch. Then re-knit the ones you un-knit and continue on in the new color. Here is a helpful video guide to joining yarns: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips/. It's about halfway down.

If you'd rather use acrylic, you can try weaving all those ends in, but that can be a pain. Another option is to put tassels on the ends of the shawl and include the yarn ends in the tassels.

To begin the shawl, cast on a multiple of 12, plus three. I started with 123 stitches (I like that number!) Knit a row, purl two rows, then knit two rows and you're ready to begin the triangle pattern.

Here is the chart for the triangle pattern: The sides show the colors I used for each row - 3 rows of red, 2 rows of orange, 3 rows of yellow; then 2 rows of orange and 3 rows of red. The white part is the actual repeating pattern.On the first row of the triangle pattern, you need to knit two together, but since it's like knitting stockinette and there are bumps on the stitches it works much better to flip the stitches before knitting them together. Just slip the stitches as if to knit onto the other needle then pass them back, not like a ssk but only to flip them so they're facing the right way to knit them together. You can click on the chart to see it larger.

Between each triangle pattern, do two rows of purl and then two rows of knit in black. When you do this, the "right side" flips, so your "right side" for the next section of triangles is the "wrong side" of the last series. This makes the shawl reversible.
Every other time you use the triangle pattern you start it at the middle, so the points of the triangles line up. When the pattern meets the edge on the last row - if it begins or ends with a "W", you only knit two together there instead of the three, because there isn't a yarn over past it.

So here is the whole pattern.

First, knit a test swatch of two rows purl, two rows knit, one repetition of the triangle pattern, and two more rows knit and purl(in one color is ok) and wash and block it to get your gauge. This can give you a rough idea of how many rows of the triangle pattern you will need and how many repetitions of it you need for the length you want. On mine the triangles were 3.5 inches wide. I wanted mine around 22" wide and 42" long. This pattern is very versatile because you can make it into a lap quilt, or a scarf, or enlarge it for a larger person (because we can't all be thin like supermodels!)

I used Peace Fleece Worsted Weight yarn on #10 circulars. I cast on 123 stitches in black.

Row 1: knit
Row 2: purl
Row 3: purl
Row 4: knit
Row 5: knit
Change to red yarn
Row 6: k1, (yo, k2 tog*, k10) 10 times, yo, k2 tog
*(slip 2 stitches, one at a time, to flip them then put them back on the original needle and knit them together)
***********Count very carefully on this row, make sure there are 11 stitches between each yarnover!*******************
Row 7: p1, (k1, p11) 10 times, k1, p
Row 8: k1, p1, (yo, k2 tog, k7, ssk*, yo, p1) 10 times, k1
*if you don't know how to do the slip, slip, knit stitch - ssk here's a helpful video of how to do it: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-8913692202753051212
Change to orange yarn
Row 9: p1, k2, (p9, k3) 9 times, p9, k2, p1
Row 10: k1, p2, (yo, k2 tog, k5, ssk, yo, p3) 9 times, yo, k2 tog, k5, ssk, yo, p2, k
Change to yellow yarn
Row 11: p1, k3, (p7, k5) 9 times, p7, k3, p1
Row 12: k1, p3, (yo, k2 tog, k3, ssk, yo, p5) 9 times, yo, k2 tog, k3, ssk, yo, p3, k
Row 13: p1, k4, (p5, k7) 9 times, p5, k4, p1
Change to orange yarn
Row 14: k1, p4, (yo, k2 tog, k1, ssk, yo, p7) 9 times, yo, k2 tog, k1, ssk, yo, p4, k
Row 13: p1, k5, (p3, k9) 9 times, p3, k5, p1
Change to red yarn
Row 15: k1, p5, (yo, K3 tog*, yo, p9) 9 times, yo, k3 tog*, yo, p5, k1
*slip 3, one at a time to flip them, slip two back for a ssk, the slip the third stitch over
Row 16: p1, k6, (p1, k11) 9 times, p1, k6, p1
Row 17: k1, p6, (yo, p2 tog, p10) 9 times, yo, p2 tog, p6, k1
Change to black yarn
Row 18: purl
Row 19: purl
Row 20: knit
Row 21: knit
Change to red yarn
Row 22: k7, (yo, k2 tog*, k10) 9 times, yo, k2 tog, k6
*(slip 2 stitches, one at a time, to flip them then put them back on the original needle and knit them together)
***********The yarnover should be above and slightly to the right of the one underneath it, so the stitch directly above the yarnover below is used in the k2 together********************
Row 23: p7, (k1, p11) 9 times, k1, p7
Row 24: k5, (ssk, yo, p1, yo, k2 tog, k7) 9 times, ssk, yo, p1, yo, k2 tog, k5
Change to orange yarn
Row 25: p6, (k3, p9) 9 times, k3, p6
Row 26: k4, (ssk, yo, p3, yo, k2 tog, k5) 9 times, ssk, yo, p3, yo, k2 tog, k4
Change to yellow yarn
Row 27: p5, (k5, p7) 9 times, k5, p5
Row 28: k3, (ssk, yo, p5, yo, k2 tog, k3) 9 times, ssk, yo, p5, yo, k2 tog, k3
Row 29: p4, (k7, p5) 9 times, k7, p3
Change to orange yarn
Row 30: k2, (ssk, yo, p7, yo, k2 tog, k1) 9 times, ssk, yo, p7, yo, k2 tog, k2
Row 31: p3, (k9, p3) 9 times, k9, p3
Change to red yarn
Row 32: k1, k2 tog, yo, p9,(yo, K3 tog*, yo, p9) 8 times, yo, k2 tog, k1
*slip 3, one at a time to flip them, slip two back for a ssk, the slip the third stitch over
Row 33: p2, (k11, p1) 9 times, k11, p2
Row 34: k1, (yo, p2 tog, p10) 10 times, yo, p2 tog
Change to black yarn
Repeat from row 2
To end, purl 2 rows, knit 2 rows, purl one row, then bind off loosely.

It's coming! New Pattern! - HomeAID Shawl

2008-07-10T08:28:00.000-07:00

I've finished the swatch for a new pattern, with an African theme, for my next new shawl. I'm thinking of calling it the HomeAID shawl, after a local group here - HomeAID for Africa. I wanted to name it after the founder of the group, but she's a humble person and I don't know if it will honor her or just embarrass her, but she is a hero for me. She read a book "We Are All The Same" about a little boy named Nkosi, in South Africa who was orphaned by AIDS and then found out he had it as well. He actually spoke before the United Nations World AIDS Summit. It's a very touching story, and the woman I am speaking of read it and had to do something about the problem of AIDS orphans in South Africa. So she started a nonprofit, selling hand-painted silk scarves and sending all the profits to organizations in Africa for children affected by AIDS. So far they've raised over $100,000 for AIDS orphans in Africa!

The greatness of this woman and her organization is only dwarfed by the fact that this is not unique - there are many, many wonderful little fundraising organizations springing up, from Beads For Life to Alex's Lemonade, showing that regular people can make a difference!

OOPS! - errors

2008-07-05T05:42:00.000-07:00

I'm re-knitting the Navdanya shawl in cashmere I got from The Twice Sheared Sheep; and I'm only on line 35 and I've found a lot of errors, including a missing line in the pattern! If anyone has already printed this out and started it and is wondering what's going on I am so sorry! I'm fixing errors as I come across them so the ones I've found are already fixed now.

Someone has volunteered to test knit the Dorothy Day shawl and hopefully will be keeping me notified of any errors she finds but if you find some please let me know as soon as possible so I can fix them before they mess up somebody else.

Dorothy Day Shawl, part II

2008-07-03T08:05:00.000-07:00

This is the second part of the pattern that begins here (click the word "here").

Here is the rest of the pattern, which I just got up on Flickr, but a little blurry because for some reason it shrank everything down and I had to enlarge it.

To begin, cast on 29 stitches, 5 each for the front and center panels and 7 each for the two candle panels (after 5, 7, 5, 7, & 5). Put in markers where one pattern stops and the next one starts or it will get too confusing! I just tied some contrasting yarn around the knitting needle there. You pass these to the next needle whenever you come to them in knitting. Knit the next row, then purl the next row, then begin following the instructions for the different panels, which is just the slow increase for three of them and the beginning of the candle pattern for the other two.

First, the two front panels and the center one have what I call the "slow increase" on the edges. There is a yarn over every knit row, but only every other one of them is actually an increase because every other time you counter it with a k2 tog or ssk to keep the same number of stitches, so it gets wider at half the rate of the candle patterns, which gain two stitches every knit row (or something similar!)

Center Panel

For the center panel, wait until you have around 15 stitches to start it, then begin the cross pattern.

You can see it a little better here.

Front Panels

On the front panels there are two little crosses near the bottom. I started them the same row as the top of the last candlesticks. I centered it but you can put it more toward the corners too.

Edges and Finishing

I used two patterns for the edges, the first is centered on where each panel joins, the center of each candle panel, and at the edges.

The other fills in the gaps and starts the last knit row before you bind off.

This is blurry - you can see it a little better on flickr.

The top one starts 6 rows before the end. It is the one that goes where the different panels come together, centered on the candle panels, and half of it on each bottom corner (knit from the ":") I don't know a better way to tell how to do it than to say you find the center stitch, line up the ":" in the chart with that and count stitches to see where to begin. I've supplied the numbers but in case you can't read them, the first row begins 4 from the center stitch, the next (knit row) 8 from the center and the last one 10 from the center stitch.

Kind of centered between these "flourishes" are a simple pattern on the last knit row before you bind off, which is three sets of \,O,K,O,/,K . You can try to center them but it doesn't show much if they're a stitch or two off center.

Dorothy Day Shawl

2008-06-30T17:42:00.001-07:00

Knit on 500 yards of romney yarn, worsted weight, from Wool-E-Farms, color "Mae" (I think that is the name of the sheep) - natural color on #10 circulars.

Dedicated to Dorothy Day, another great woman.
Here she is reading at the farm in Easton, PA

I knit this as if it were 5 panels (but all at once, not sewn together). Three were almost the same except the front two had small crosses near the bottom while the center one had the large cross in the back.

Between them were the two candle panels, which made me think of Dorothy Day, because she is the founder of the Catholic Worker Movement. I've lived in the Peter Clavier house in Philly and met my friends there who now run the House of Grace, where they operate a free clinic for the poor in one of the "bad" neighborhoods in the city, and are starting one up in Haiti for the desperately poor.
On TV if someone is Catholic, seems like sooner or later they'll be lighting candles for some reason!

The flame is a take-off on the candle flame pattern, which by itself makes a lovely shawl, but I spaced them out a bit and narrowed them some to make room for the candle sticks.

I'm still charting this one, it's not for the faint-of-heart but not too bad, the three similar panels are easy and the candle one is a lot of repeating of simple patterns, but easy to lose your place in.

Here's what I have so far and I'll update this as I get more time to finish it.

You can think of this shawl as 5 panels all knit at the same time (or maybe do it as a group project and each person knit one panel). The first and last panels are identical, or maybe mirror opposites, simply knit in a stockinette stitch with a small cross near the bottom. The second and fourth panels are the candle panels, and the center panel is very similar to the first and last except with a larger cross pattern centered on the upper part.

Candle Panels
This makes use of a "lifted increase" (thank you my knitlist friends for telling me the name of that one!) around the candle flames so there aren't any unsightly "holes" where we don't want them. It is an unusual stitch but pretty easy to do, especially on the purl ones, but make sure the needle goes into the stitch from the top down)

Row 1: p3, k, p3

Row 2: k3, p, k3

Row 3: p3, k3 into 1*, p3 *[k 3 into 1 = knit, yo, knit into the same stitch]

Row 4: k3, p3, k3

Row 5: p3, k, k3 into 1, k, p3

Row 6: k3, p5, k3

Row 7: p3, k2, k3 into 1, k2, p3

Row 8: k3, p7, k3

Row 9: p3, k3, k3 into 1, k3, p3

Row 10: k3, p9, k3

Row 11: p2, u*, k9, u, p2 *[u = pick up the "bump" of the stitch beneath the current one on the needle, purl that, slip it off, purl the current one as usual - makes an invisible increase]

Row 12: k4, p9, k4

Row 13: u, p2, u, k3, k3 tog*, k3, u, p2, u *[k 3 tog your favorite way, mine is to slip two stitches together from the hand side of the needle (not the point side) then knit the next stitch then pass the two slipped stitches together over the knit one - makes the center one come out on top]

Row 14: k6, p7, k6

Row 15: u, p, k, p2, u, k2, k3 tog, k2, u, p2, k, p, u (you should have 21 stitches now)

Row 16: k3, p, k4, p5, k4, p, k3 (still 21)

Row 17: p3, k3 into 1, p4, k, k3 tog, k, p4, k3 into 1, p3 (19 stitches)

Row 18: k3, p3, k4, p3, k4, p3, k3 (23 stitches)

Row 19: p3, k, k3 into 1, k, p4, k3 tog, p4, k, k3 into 1, k, p3

Row 20: k3, p5, k4, p, k4, p5, k3 (25 stitches)

***************THE REPEATING PATTERN STARTS HERE*******************

BLUE IS THE LEFT CANDLE PATTERN, BLACK IS THE RIGHT CANDLE PATTERN (which is the left candle pattern, reversed), AND RED IS THE CANDLESTICK PATTERN - Notice that there are two stitches between each candlestick once there are more than one of them - they are purled on the right side and knit on the wrong side.

Row 21: [p3, k2, k3 into 1, k2, p 2 tog], [ssk, yo, k, yo, k 2 tog], [p 2 tog, k2, k3 into 1, k2, p3]

Row 22: [k3, p7, k], [p5], [k, p7, k3] = 27

Row 23: [p3, k3, k3 into 1, k3, p], [ssk, yo, k, yo, k 2 tog], [p, k3, k3 into 1, k3, p3]

Row 24: [k3, p9, k], [p5], [k, p9, k3] = 31

Row 25: [p3, k9, p], [ssk, yo, k, yo, k 2 tog], [p, k9, p3]

Row 27: [k3, p9, k], [p5], [k, p9, k3] = 31

Row 28: [u, p, u, k3, k3 tog, k3, u], [ssk, yo, k, yo, k 2 tog], [u, k3, k3 tog, k3, u, p, u]

Row 29: [k5, p7, k2], [p5], [k2, p7, k5] = 33

Row 30: [u, p3, u, k2, k3 tog, k2, u, p], [ssk, yo, k, yo, k 2 tog], [p, u, k2, k3 tog, k2, u, p3, u]

Row 31: [k3, p, k3, p5, k3], [p5], [k3, p5, k3, p, k3] = 35

Row 32: [p3, k3 into 1, p2, u, k, k3 tog, k, u, p2], [ssk, yo, k, yo, k 2 tog], [p2, u, k, k3 tog, k, u, p2, k3 into 1, p3]

Row 33: [k3, p3, k4, p3, k4], [p5], [k4, p3, k4, p3, k3] = 39

Row 34: [p3, k, k3 into 1, k, p4, k3 tog, p4], [ssk, yo, k, yo, k 2 tog], [p4, k3 tog, p4, k, k3 into 1, k, p3]

Row 35: [k3, p5, k4, p, k4], [p5], [k4, p, k4, p5, k3] = 37

Row 36: [p3, k2, k3 into 1, k2, p 2 tog], [ssk, yo, k, yo, k 2 tog], p2, [ssk, yo, k, yo, k 2 tog], p2, [ssk, yo, k, yo, k 2 tog], [p2 tog, k2, k3 into 1, k2, p3] = 39

(this is one flame pattern on each side with three candlesticks in the middle)

Continue until there are 7 flames on the panel, then don't start any new ones and on each right side row do a u increase at the beginning and end, purl (on the right side, k on the wrong side) until you get to the candlesticks, and from the last candlestick to the end of the panel (don't forget the u increase at the end).

This will depend on gauge, but when you get near the end, like 3" or so, stop purling between candlesticks but repeat the candlestick pattern one more row (with two knits between each instead of two purls), from then on, just knit across on the right side, purl on the wrong side. That will set it up for the nice edge. I did 14 rows of candlestick pattern for the shortest candle (including the row that had knit between instead of purl).

This pattern is continued here: http://prayershawlministries.blogspot.com/2008/07/dorothy-day-shawl-part-ii.html

How to do the Navdanya shawl

2008-06-29T04:57:00.000-07:00

Shawl - Navdanya, in honor of Vandana Shiva www.navdanya.org

Here's the Wikipedia article on Vandana Shiva:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vandana_Shiva

I used less than 3 skeins of Peace Fleece's "Volgassippi Blue" Worsted Weight, Merino/Mohair yarn on #10 circular needles (29" I believe). You can of course use larger needles, I found this just a bit tight.

It is based on the Hemlock ring shawl, which is based on a doily from the 1940's that Jared adapted to larger yarn.

Isn't he brilliant??

Here's a link to the doily http://www.angelfire.com/folk/celtwich/KnitHemlockRing.html

And here's a link to Jared's site where he shows the blanket/shawl he made.
http://brooklyntweed.blogspot.com/2007/08/hemlock-ring-blanket.html

On that one there is another link to where he charted out the pattern from row 47 (of the doily - my row 38) on.

I had to tweak it a bit to change it from circular knitting to a semi-circle. In my tweakings I realized that I had somehow changed it from the 5/8 of a circle I was shooting for to just a half-circle, which one of my knitting mentors had said won't stay on as nicely. It doesn't!

I tried to fix this by going back and adding a 12 stitch border on each side. Simple is better - it was k, p, k, p, k4, p, k, p, k but a few inches from the bottom I added a little cross, VOILA! Now it feels like a prayer shawl!

Cross pattern, on 5 stitches:

Row 1: k, ssk, yo, k2
row 2: purl
row 3: ssk, yo, k, yo, k2 tog.
row 4: purl
row 5: k, ssk, yo, k2
row 6: purl
row 7: k, ssk, yo, k2
row 8: purl

Very astute people will notice that the knit part of the border is only 4 knit stitches in a row - on the first row I just knitted instead of the ssk so it got one stitch wider. Looks good that way, I continued the rest of the border one stitch wider. I put the cross starting about 4" from the bottom.

One thing about making and then fixing mistakes is that you sometimes wind up with something you like better! The plain border doesn't take away from the flowing beauty of the shawl, but does give it the tiniest help staying on!

The "staying on" issue will be fixed, but what I liked about it is that it gives it a really nice straight edge on the sides, before, no matter how I tried to block it right it had a bulge near the top. So I'm keeping the 12 stitch border (but let's knit right on instead of sewing it on at the end!) But to do a real fix, do 6 repeats of the hemlock ring pattern, not 5 like I did. That is how I'm going to write it up.

For the center part, cast on 48 (or 26 if you want to skip the border on the edges)

The border pattern is:

k, p, k, p, k4, p, k, p, k on the knit side

and p, k, p, k, p4, k, p, k, p on the purl side

and you do it at the beginning and end of each row.

So from now on, you know to do that and since it's always the same, every row, I don't need to keep telling you, right?

I find it very helpful to use knitting markers between the repeats and also to separate the borders. I learned from experience it saves a lot of ripping out! You can cheaply make some by using a contrasting color of yarn (contrasting feel is even better, in case you tend to knit without looking on the easier rows). Just tie the yarn around the knitting needle with a good knot and cut the ends relatively short so they don't keep getting in your way. Slip the markers from one needle to the other as you get to them, and you've got yourself a pretty good system of not losing your place (especially important toward the end on this one!)

Rows 1 - 6: stockinette - knit the knit side and purl the purl side (but do border pattern, too!)

Row 7: K2 tog, YO twice, ssk, repeat for a total of 6 times (if you're skipping the border just start and end with a knit stitch).

Row 8: p1, p/k 9 in the double yarn-over, p1, repeat. Here's how you do that tricky step: knit, purl, knit, purl in the first yarnover, then slip it off and knit/purl 5 more times in the second. If it's really hard, remember to keep the stitches loose so the threads can slide a little on there.

Rows 9 - 16: knit/purl for 8 rows (stockinette).

Row 17: (yo, k11), repeat 5 more times, end with yo.

Row 18: purl.

Row 19: (k, yo, k11, yo) repeat 5 more times, k.

Row 20: purl.

Row 21: K2, (yo, k4, k3 tog., k4, yo, k3) repeat 5 more times, on the last repetition, last stitch k2 instead of k3.

Row 22: purl.

Row 23: K2 tog., (yo, k1, yo, k3, k3 tog., k3, yo, k, yo, k3 tog) repeat 5 times more, k2 tog on the last repetition, last stitch instead of k3 tog. (for the k3 tog. you can do it nice ways if you like, like slip 2 knitwise, knit, pass the two slipped stitches but it looks good either way)

Row 24: purl.

Row 25: k1, (yo, k3, yo, k2, k3 tog., k2, yo, k3, yo, p & k in next stitch) repeat 5 more times, k1 in last repetition instead of p & k.

Row 26: purl.

Row 27: K2, (yo, k3 tog., yo, k, yo, k, k3 tog., k, yo, k, yo, k3 tog., yo, k4) repeat 5 times, k2 in last repetition, last stitch instead of k4.

Row 28: purl.

Row 29: (k2 tog., k2, yo, k3, yo, k3 tog., yo, k3, yo, k2, ssk) repeat 5 times more.

Row 30: purl.

Row 31: (K2 tog., k2, yo, k3 tog., (yo, k) 3 times, yo, k3 tog., yo, k2, ssk) repeat 5 more times.

Row 32: purl.

Row 33: (K2 tog., (k3, yo) two times, k, (yo, k3) two times, ssk) repeat 5 more times.

Row 34: purl.

Row 35: (K2 tog, k3, yo, k3 tog., (yo, k)3 times, yo, k3 tog., yo, k3, ssk), repeat 5 more times.

Rows 36 - 38: knit and purl (stockinette)

Row 39: (k2 tog., k2 tog., k3, (yo,k) 6 times, k2, ssk, ssk) repeat 5 more times.

Rows 40 - 43 purl/knit (stockinette)

Row 44: (P2 tog. 3 times, (p, yo) 8 times, p, ssp 3 times) repeat 5 more times.

Rows 45 - 48: knit/purl (stockinette)

Row 49: (k2 tog. 3 times, (k, yo) 10 times, k, ssk 3 times) repeat 5 more times.

Rows 50 - 53 purl/knit (stockinette)

Row 54: (P2 tog. 4 times, (yo, p) 11 times, yo, ssp 4 times) repeat 5 more times.

Rows 55 - 58: knit/purl (stockinette)

Row 59: (k2 tog. 4 times, k2, (yo,k) 12 times, k, ssk 4 times) repeat 5 more times.

Rows 60 - 63 purl/knit (stockinette)

Row 64: (P2 tog. 5 times, (p, yo) 14 times, p, ssp 5 times) repeat 5 more times.

Rows 65 - 68: knit/purl (stockinette)

Row 69: (k2 tog. 6 times, (yo,k) 15 times, yo, ssk 6 times) repeat 5 more times.

Rows 70 - 73: purl/knit (stockinette)

Row 74: (P2 tog. 6 times, p2, (yo, p) 16 times, p, ssp 6 times) repeat 5 more times.

Rows 75 - 78: knit/purl (stockinette)

Row 79: (k2 tog. 7 times, (k, yo) 18 times, k, ssk 7 times) repeat 5 more times.

Rows 80 - 83 purl/knit (stockinette)

Row 84: (P2 tog. 8 times, (yo, p) 19 times, yo, ssp 8 times) repeat 5 more times.

Rows 85 - 88: knit/purl (stockinette)

Row 89: (k2 tog. 8 times, k2, (yo, k) 20 times, k, ssk 8 times) repeat 5 more times.

Row 90 - 93: purl/knit (stockinette)

Bind off loosly.

Here it is with all 6 repetitions of the pattern and the edge knitted on (in recycled cashmere from Twice Sheared Sheep - ebay).

Cashmere and Tithing

2008-06-27T08:35:00.000-07:00

If you're knitting a prayer shawl, you're going to give it away, for FREE, right? For the glory of God, as an extension of His love. "Blessed be those who mourn, for they shall be comforted". Two things occur to me about this. First, that if you're doing this as a ministry, the amount you spend on yarn could be counted toward your tithe. Second, that any joy you get as a result of knitting the shawl will be the right joy of doing God's good work.

About tithing. We give 10%. When I first got married this led to some lively discussions between me and my husband. I broke it to him that I believed in tithing, 10% of all income. He had a fair bit of income so that was a nice chunk of change for him to consider giving away! I told him my beliefs, that everything in the world is God's and only ours as stewards. That any things or money we accrue is due to God's love and protection and blessings. So although we can never deserve his blessings, which are freely given, we do owe Him a debt of gratitude and one way to show this is to give some on, to those less blessed but equally loved by Him. Then came the "Before or after taxes" discussion. LOL!

So if you tithe 10% you can easily afford good yarns for your prayer shawl ministry. When I think of something I'm giving to comfort a grieving person - a woman who found out her child or husband is dying, or lost a child in the war, I think cashmere. Pure cashmere. Good quality cashmere. Touching it is like touching puppies. It's warm yet light as a feather. It reminds me of an angel hug, or the breath of God. Not only that, but because it is so warm and soft, you can use lace weight for the shawl and wind up with a lot of coverage in a few ounces, so it becomes portable in a way a worsted weight shawl isn't.

That brings us to the next point. Knitting cashmere! Oh it feels so soft in my hands! It's such fun to "pet" it as the work progresses. It's fun to think of the joy it can bring the right person to own such a garment. If you've only knitted with cheap acrylic yarns, then knitting cashmere is such a wonderful treat! And doing God's work, working for God, should be fun, enjoyable, and all that great stuff. After all, we're not doing this for ourselves, but to give away freely, just as God gives us His gifts freely. But this is a ministry of love, not penance! Joy is right to feel when the heart is in the right place!

I hope when I make things from cashmere they get used and used, and don't get put away because they're "too nice" for everyday use. I hope the recipients use them all winter, for reading, watching TV, prayer, knitting, whatever.

You can buy recycled cashmere on ebay, just search on recycled yarn. People actually buy sweaters made of cashmere, silk, angora, etc. and unravel it (I've tried this before - it's a lot of work!) then make it into balls or skeins and sell it to be reused. Often they wash the garment first, too, so the yarn is nice and clean. Or you can go to your local yarn store and get some of that wonderful cashmere from the special place where they keep the neatest yarns. It may be $35 a skein or more, but often the fingering or lace weight is 400 yards or more to a skein, enough for a shawl. Remember, this isn't YOUR money you're spending, it's God's, and He cares enough to give the very best! :)

One thing about knitting cashmere, if you knit the lace weight on #10's it comes out looking more lacey - there are "holes" even where you've only done stockinette. But it blooms and believe me, it's warm anyways! Don't waste your money or time on cheap cashmere either. I've made that mistake. If it's cheap, too good to be true, it's probably the short fibers, which will pill and make an ugly product after a few uses. You get what you pay for.

Welcome to my new blog!

2008-06-26T07:16:00.000-07:00

I want to post free prayer shawl patterns here and provide links to other knitting, prayer related, and social justice sites. When I first heard of prayer shawls, I thought there would be lovely patterns available with crosses or religious symbols on them. I was disappointed to find out that not only there weren't many easy to find but also that the ones people are giving out are sometimes a little on the ugly side, and made from man-made fibers that are polluting the environment.

I have a vision for something different - that when people make a prayer shawl, it will be made of materials that reflect their good will and Godliness - sustainable fibers that are worth something - a shawl that will be as beautiful 20 years from now as when it is given. A shawl that gives warmth and isn't just a token to show that someone is thinking of you.

I also want the patterns to be easy enough for those who have just learned to knit, those who are beginners at lace knitting, and those who have a lot of distractions in their lives! I've read that knitting creates the same chemical and biological changes in the body as meditation but is easier to learn and the changes can happen faster. I'm hoping that creating prayer shawls, with prayers knitted in and loving thoughts on the part of the knitter, will create a peace in the knitter, as well as do good for the lucky recipient of the shawl. I hope when people follow these patterns they take at least some time to read the Bible first (or whatever holy book they prefer) and spend some time knitting in silence to receive from God, as I did when I got the idea to do this blog.

It is amazing to me the wonderful human creativity that goes into some shawl designs, and although it might be easy to get pride from taking a ball of wool and a circular needle and creating a work of art, I hope people give the glory to God, who made wool and gave the gift of creativity to the wonderful artists who come up with the designs. Tho of course I will strive to give credit to the humans whose ideas I borrow as well!

I've just finished a prayer shawl, it's being blocked upstairs on my bed. I hope to get the photo and patterns up soon. I intend to dedicate this shawl to Vandana Shiva and her organization Navdanya. Vandana Shiva is one of my personal heroes, an Indian woman who tirelessly fights to protect Indias poor farmers from greedy corporations. The pattern I used is a modification of the hemlock ring, this time to make a half-circular shawl. I used a blue wool so the effect seems to me like water flowing. One of Vandana Shiva's battles is to keep corporatons from moving in and using up all the water, leaving none for the farmers downstream or in the same aquifer for their crops and personal needs.