Taking a knitting vacation

I've been gaining weight since I got obsessed with lace knitting. I had to quit knitting to get time to exercise and keep up my responsibilities with the kids and house. Maybe later I'll find time to design more patterns, but in the meantime I'll leave this here as a source of free patterns. Sorry I haven't gotten to all the requests for help - I think some are so old the writer probably either figured it out or frogged it by now.

New Design Coming!

A group from my church read Cutting for Stone by Abraham Verghese. It is about twin brothers growing up in Ethiopia in a medical mission. Good book. One of the important parts of the story is the discovery of a way to treat fistula.

A fistula occurs when a woman in labor cannot deliver her baby and the pressure of contractions for days causes openings to be torn between her uterus and colon so she gets a constant flow of smelly fluids running down her legs that she cannot control. It is truly horrendous and the women, because they smelled and seemed "unclean" were often shunned after this happened to them.

It looks like The Fistula Foundation is the charity that is doing the most to end this problem, so this shawl will be called the FF Celtic Cross Shawl, and be dedicated to them. I hope if people like the design they will look at the links, maybe watch their award-winning movie "A Walk to Beautiful" or the slideshow "From Despair to Dignity" that the Fistula Foundation made to raise awareness about this problem and what can be done to help.

I think this is the essence of a prayer shawl ministry - women coming together, sharing something that is uniquely womanly, to help others. How perfect that in this case it will be helping fellow women in their time of need!

I've started a thread on Ravelry for a KAL of this pattern. When all the errors are corrected I'll post the instructions here as a new post called FF Celtic Cross.

The Rosalie Rosary Shawl (test pattern)

Rosalie Rosary Shawl

This can be knit in several gauges.
A: If your gauge is around 12-16 stitches per 4 inches, use the first set of numbers. You will need approximately 700 yards of yarn.
B: If it is 17-22 stitches per 4 inches use the second set of numbers. You will need approximately 850 yards of yarn, more if you intend to make it longer like a cape.
C: If it is 23 or higher use the third set of numbers. You will need approximately 1200 yards of yarn.


Rosary

You will also need a lightweight cross and 53 matching beads for the rosary. If you look on eBay you can find some pretty nice beads to use, or you can try a local craft store or even a flea market to find a necklace you can remove beads from. If you will be using the second method, you will also need 6 lightweight buttons, ¾” or larger for the wrong side, and 5 buttons about the same size for the front.

There are two ways to attach the rosary beads.

#1: If you are using thin yarn or large enough beads, you can put them right on the yarn as you knit. For this, you will need to be using wool yarn and the spit splice method. Where indicated, break the yarn leaving a 12” tail. Use a tapestry needle to string the beads. For the cross at the top, string 3 beads, the cross, then go back through the three beads. For the lower 5 loops of 10 beads each, make sure the loop is large enough to fit over the button you got for the other side, then knot it into the loop to keep it from growing or shrinking. Remove the needle, reattach the end to the ball of yarn using a spit splice, and continue knitting in pattern.

To do a spit splice, unravel the ends of the yarn and pull apart some so they are loose. Wet both ends, hold together overlapping the loosened parts, and roll them back and forth between your hands, creating heat to felt them together. You may want to test your yarn before using this method to be sure it can be spit spliced.

#2: The other way is to attach the beads after you are finished, using a strong thread and a lightweight button on the reverse side for added stability.

When you finish knitting the shawl and weaving in the ends, apply the rosary beads as follows: Cross and three beads centered on the upper right neck edge in the imaginary square where the neck edging and border edging meet - so it would be about ½” to ¾” from the top and right edge. Five sets of loops of 10 beads, starting with the bottom right edge, centered in the imaginary square where the bottom border and side edging meet, the other 4 at the corners of the zig-zags (inward and outward corners) on the right side.

Place a lightweight button on the wrong side of the shawl where the bead loop is to be. Using a needle and your thread, go through one of the button’s holes and the shawl, leaving a tail. Place 10 beads on the needle and thread, then go back through the shawl and button. Make sure the loop this makes is large enough to fit around the button for the other side, then do a few passes through the shawl and button to hold it in place and tie the thread ends together. It will be stronger if you go through two rows of knitting and not just one piece of yarn. For the cross, go through three beads, then the cross, then back through the three beads, with the button on the wrong side as above. You can use a spot of glue from a glue gun to hold the knot in place.

----------------------

This shawl uses the Fibonacci numbers. They are 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, 21, 34, 55, and on - you add the two previous numbers to get the next number. These numbers occur in nature a lot and often give results that are pleasing to the eye. In this case, you alternate the yarn over being before or after the knit section so the Fibonacci numbers are on alternating sides of the border edge.


These instructions are for a cape-type shawl that will measure 18”-20” from the neck down. For longer shawls, continue in pattern to the desired length.

Neck Edging
To begin cast on 35 (45, 54) [A (B, C)]
Row 1: knit, purl, repeat to end
Row 2: knit the knit stitches and purl the purled ones
Row 3: purl the knit stitches and knit the purled ones
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until piece measures 1.5 inches.

Shaping
4 (5, 6) stitches on either side are the border pattern. These will always be done in the moss stitch as above - knit the purls and purl the knits on the right side, knit the knits and purl the purls on the wrong side.

1
Row 1: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 4(5, 6) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 2 and all even rows: knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches and yarn overs (moss stitch the borders and stockinet the center).
1
Row 3: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 5(6, 7) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
2
Row 5: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 6 (7, 8) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 7: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 7 (8, 9) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
3
Row 9: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 8 (9, 10) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 11: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 9 (10, 11) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 13: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 10 (11, 12) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
5 * Rosary Method # 1 - add a loop of beads 2 (3, 4) stitches before the end of row 15 - ONLY if you will be binding off at Row 107
Row 15: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 11 (12, 13) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 17: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 12 (13, 14) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 19: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 13, (14, 15) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 21: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 14 ( 15,16) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 23: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 15 (16, 17) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
8 * Rosary Method # 1 - add a loop of beads 2 (3, 4) stitches before the end of row 25.
Row 25: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 16 (17, 18) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 27: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 17 (18, 19) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 29: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 18 (19, 20) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 31: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 19 (20, 21) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 33: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 20 (21, 22) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 35: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 21 (22, 23) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 37: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 22 (23, 24) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 39: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 23 (24, 25) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
13 * Rosary Method # 1 - add a loop of beads 2 (3, 4) stitches before the end of row 41.
Row 41: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 24 (25, 26) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 43: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 25 (26, 27) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 45: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 26 (27, 28) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 47: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 27 (28, 29) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 49: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 28 (29, 30) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 51: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 29 (30, 31) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 53: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 30 (31, 32) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 55: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 31 (32, 33) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 57: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 32 (33, 34) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 59: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 33 (34, 35) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 61: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 34 (35, 36) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 63: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 35 (36, 37) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 65: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 36 (37, 38) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
21 * Rosary Method # 1 - add a loop of beads 2 (3, 4) stitches before the end of row 67
Row 67: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 37 (38, 39) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 69: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 38 (39, 40) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 71: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 39 (40, 41) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 73: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 40 (41, 42) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 75: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 41 (42, 43) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 77: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 42 (43, 44) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 79: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 43 (44, 45) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 81: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 44 (45, 46) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 83: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 45 (46, 47) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 85: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 46 (47, 48) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 87: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 47 (48, 49) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 89: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 48 (49, 50) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 91: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 49 (50, 51) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 93: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 50 (51, 52) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 95: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 51 (52, 53) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 97: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 52 (53, 54) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 99: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 53 (54, 55) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 101: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 54 (55, 56) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.

** Alternate endings - If this is long enough, from here to the end of Row 107 do moss stitch all the way across, making yarn overs where indicated. Remember if you will be killing your acrylic or blocking the wool it will gain an inch or more. Every other row there will be two knits or two purls where the yarn over changed the count. It doesn’t matter much on the wrong side whether you knit or purl the yarn overs, but on the right side, be sure to follow the alternating knit, purl pattern for each repeated section. * Rosary Method # 1 - add a loop of beads 2 (3, 4) stitches before the end of row 103.

Row 103: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 55 (56, 57) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 105: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 56 (57, 58) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 107: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 57 (58, 59) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
** Bind off loosely using a larger needle if you decided to end it here.
34 * Rosary Method # 1 - add a loop of beads 2 (3, 4) stitches before the end of row 109.
Row 109: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 58 (59, 60) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 111: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 59 (60, 61) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 113: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 60 (61, 62) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 115: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 61 (62, 63) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 117: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 62 (63, 64) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 119: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 63 (64, 65) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 121: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 64 (65, 66) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 123: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 65 (66, 67) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 125: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 66 (67, 68) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 127: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 67 (68, 69) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 129: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 68 (69, 70) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 131: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 69 (70, 71) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 133: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 70 (71, 72) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 135: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 71 (72, 73) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 139: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 72 (73, 74) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 141: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 73 (74, 75) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 143: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 74 (75, 76) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 145: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 75 (76, 77) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 147: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 76 (77, 78) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 149: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 77 (78, 79) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 151: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 78 (79, 80) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 153: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 79 (80, 81) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 155: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 80 (81, 82) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 157: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 81 (82, 83) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 159: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 82 (83, 84) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 161: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 83 (84, 85) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 163: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 84 (85, 86) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 165: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 85 (86, 87) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 167: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 86 (87, 88) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.

Ending: Every other row there will be two knits or two purls where the yarn over changed the count. It doesn’t matter much on the wrong side whether you knit or purl the yarn overs, but on the right side, be sure to follow the alternating knit, purl pattern for each repeated section.

Row 169: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Moss stitch 87 (88, 89) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
* Rosary Method # 1 - add a loop of beads 2 (3, 4) stitches before the end of row 171.
Row 171: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Moss stitch 88 (89, 90) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 173: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Moss stitch 89 (90, 91) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 175: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Moss stitch 90 (91, 92) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 177: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Moss stitch 91 (92, 93) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.

Bind off loosely.

New design coming!

Sr. Rosalie Bertell is a very interesting person.

Rosalie Bertell, Grey Nun of the Sacred Heart, received her Ph. D. degree in Biometrics with minors in Biology and Biochemistry from the Catholic University of America, in 1966. Since that time she has worked as a biometrician and environmental epidemiologist. By choice, Dr. Bertell works for the victims or potential victims of industrial, technological and military pollution with a particular emphasis on assisting the struggles of third world and indigenous people to preserve their Human Right to life and health. The major issues are the dangers associated with economic globalization, war and the proliferation of chemical and radioactive pollutants as the result of preparation for war and the toxic products and processes developed from weapons research and production.

The International Institute of Concern for Public Health (IICPH), of which she is Founder and Immediate Past President, opened its doors in 1984 in Toronto Canada and continues to serve as an institutional support for her work. She is also a founding member of the International Commission of Health Professionals, and the International Association of Humanitarian Medicine.

Among many projects she has headed, the most notable are: Director of the International Medical Commission Bhopal which investigated the aftermath of the Bhopal disaster in India, and organizer of the International Medical Commission Chernobyl to present testimony to the Permanent People's Tribunal. She assisted the people of the Philippines with problems stemming from toxic waste left by the U.S. Military on their abandoned Subic and Clark military bases. She has worked with the government of Ireland to hold Britain responsible for the radioactive pollution of the Irish Sea, and is assisting the Gulf War Veterans and the Iraqi citizens dealing with the illness called Gulf War Syndrome. She acted as Consultant to local, Provincial and Federal Governments, unions and citizen organizations.

She is the recipient of five honourary degrees. Among her many awards can be numbered the Alternative Nobel Prize, Right Livelihood Award; World Federalist Peace Award; Ontario Premier's Council on Health, Health Innovator Award; the United Nations Environment Programme Global 500 award and the Sean MacBride International Peace Prize. She has recently been selected to be one of the 1000 Peace Women nominated for the Nobel Peace Prize, 2005. Rosalie has published numerous articles, reviewed articles for professional journals and was editor of the journal, "International Perspectives in Public Health". Her books, "No Immediate Danger: Prognosis for a Radioactice Earth" and "Planet Earth: The Latest Weapon of War" can be obtained from IICPH. "Handbook For Estimating Health Effects From Exposure To Ionizing Radiation" intended for the health Professionals, which she edited, is also obtainable from IICPH.

I've realized that my header says these are supposed to be easy designs, and lately they haven't been exactly something a beginner could easily tackle. So this new design will be a very easy one. Very very easy. You could probably knit it under your desk at work, or in a meeting. Once you "get" it, you may not even have to look at the pattern. Yeah, that easy. It will also use the Fibonacci numbers, thanks to my son liking the book "Penrose, the Mathematical Cat".

Kathy Kelly Cabled Capelet

This pattern is dedicated to Kathy Kelly, a friend of a friend and someone who exemplifies the kind of woman warrior for peace I like to bring more attention to. She was a founding member of Voices in the Wilderness, and also Voices for Creative Non-Violence. She's been called "probably the most respected leader in the American peace movement." She has put herself in the line of fire in fact-finding missions to very dangerous places, and has been imprisoned several times because of the work she is doing.

download now

Use a worsted weight (or thicker) yarn with stitch gauge at most 18 stitches per 4 inches with whatever size needles it takes you to get that gauge. I'm doing mine with Lion Brand Fisherman's wool yarn and using #8 circulars (but it is NOT knit in the round!)

Stitch Abbreviations:

K - knit
P - purl
SSK - slip, slip, knit - a
K2tog - knit two stitches together
K3 into 1 - into the same stitch - knit, yarn over, knit
Lifted increase stitches - this is an almost invisible increase done by knitting into a stitch below the current row. See the video on http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to-knit-lifted-increase-176501/ if you have trouble with this stitch. There are 4 versions:
Llk - insert the left needle into the stitch beneath the stitch just knitted & knit it.
Llp - insert the left needle into the stitch beneath the stitch just knitted & purl it.
Lrk - insert the right needle into the stitch beneath the next stitch to be knitted, transfer that stitch to the left needle and knit it.
Lrp - insert the right needle into the stitch beneath the next stitch to be knitted, transfer that stitch to the left needle and purl it.

This complicated looking stitch notation will get easy to use once you get used to it. I wrote out the first two in the pattern so you can test your understanding of how to read it. Believe me, as the pattern goes on this will make things SO much easier to read!
C - cable stitch - after the C is the number of stitches you slip to the cable needle, then f if you hold it to the front or b if you hold it to the back, k and a number tells you to knit that many stitches next; or p and a number tells you to purl that many stitches next; then c and either k or p to show you’re now to knit or purl all the stitches from the cable needle. For example C2fk1ck would be slip 2 to the cable needle, hold to the front, knit 1, then knit the 2 from the cable needle.

I will use the format [first edge], (repeat the stitches inside these the number given - to make the 7 panels), additional stitches, [second edge]. If you want to change the edge to seed stitch or widen it or add buttonholes, that should make it clear where you can do that.

Cast on 57.

Row 1: knit

Row 2 and all even rows: purl

Row 3: [K2, P2, K3], (K2, P, K, P, K) X 7, K, [K3, P2, K2]

Row 5: [P2, K2, P2, K], (K2, P, K, P, K) X 7, K, [K, P2, K2, P2]

Row 7: repeat Row 3

Row 9: [P2, K2, P2, K], (K3 into 1, K, P, K, Llk, P, K) X 7, K3 into 1, [K, P2, K2, P2]

Row 11: [K2, P2, K2, K2tog], (K3 into 1, K2 tog, P, C1fk1ck**slip 1 to cable needle, hold to front, knit next stitch, knit 1 from cable - got it?**, P, SSK) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 13: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog], (K3 into 1, SSK, P, K, Llk, Lrk, K, P, K2 tog) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 15: [K2, P2, K2, K2tog], (K3 into 1, SSK, P, C2fk2ck **slip 2 to cable needle, hold to front, knit next 2 stitches, knit the 2 from cable needle**, P, K2 tog) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 17: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog], (K3 into 1, K2, P, K2, Llp, Lrp, K2, P, K2) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 19: [K2, P2, K2, K2tog], (K3 into 1, K, SSK, P, C2fp1ck, C1bk2cp, P, K2 tog, K) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 21: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog], (K3 into 1, K, SSK, P2, Llp, C2fk2ck, Lrp, P2, K2 tog, K) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 23: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K, SSK, P, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, P, K2 tog, K) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 25: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K3, P, C2fp2ck, slip 2 to cable needle, hold to back, knit 1, Llk, purl 2 from cable needle, K, Llk, P, K3) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 27: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K2, SSK, P3, C2fk2ck, P2, K2, P, K2 tog, K2) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 29: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K2, SSK, P, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, K2, Llp, P, Llp, K2 tog, K2) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 31: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K2, SSK, P, K2, P4, C2fk2ck, P3, K2 tog, K2) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 33: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K4, P, Llp, C2fp2ck, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, Lrp, P, K4) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2] *be careful here to get the two Lrp’s in - I kept missing them!

For those counting stitches, Row 9 was increased by 23 stitches to a total of 80 stitches. I increased it by 14 stitches on rows 13, 21, and 29. I increased it by 28 stitches on rows 17, 25, and 33. Every other odd row has no increases (and the even rows are just purled.
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Row 35: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K3, SSK, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, K2, P2, K2 tog, K3) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 37: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K3, SSK, P2, Llk, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, C2bk2cp, P2, K2 tog, K3) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 39: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K3, SSK, P2, Llk, C2fk1ck, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, K2 tog, K3) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 41: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K5, P2, K2, Llp, Lrp, C2fp2ck, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, P2, K5) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

*****Row 37 and 39 were increased by 7 stitches; Row 41 was increased by 28 stitches.
---------------
Row 43: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K4, SSK, P2, K2, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, K2, P2, K2 tog, K4) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 45: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K4, SSK, P2, C2fp2ck, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, Llk, C2bk1cp, K, Llk, P2, K2 tog, K4) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 47: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K4, SSK, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, C2fk2ck, P2, K2, P2, K2 tog, K4) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 49: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K6, P2, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, K2, P, Llp, Lrp, P, K6) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 51: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K5, SSK, P2, K2, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, K2 tog, K5) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

**Row 45 was increased by 14; Row 49 was increased by 28.

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Row 53: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K5, SSK, P2, K, Llk, C1fp2ck, Llk, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, P2, K2 tog, K5) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 55: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K5, SSK, P2, K2, P2, C2fk2ck, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, K2, P2, K2 tog, K5) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 57: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K7, P, Llp, Lrp, P, K2, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, C2bk2cp, P2, K7) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 59: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K6, SSK, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, K2 tog, K6) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

** Row 53 was increased by 14 stitches and Row 57 by 28 stitches.

---------------

Row 61: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K6, SSK, P3, Llp, C1bk2cp, C2fp1ck, P2, C1bk2cp, C2fp1ck, P2, C1bk2cp, C2fp1ck, Lrp, P3, K2 tog, K6) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 63: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K6, SSK, P3, C1bk2cp, P2, C2fp1ck, C1bk2cp, P2, C2fp1ck, C1bk2cp, P2, C2fp1ck, P3, K2 tog, K6) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 65: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K8, P3, K2, Llk, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, Lrk, K2, P3, K8) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

**Row 61 was increased by 14 stitches; Row 65 was increased by 28 stitches.
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Row 67: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K7, SSK, P3, C3fp1ck, P2, C1bk2cp, C2fp1ck, P2, C1bk2cp, C2fp1ck, P2, C1bk3cp, P3, K2 tog, K7) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 69: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K7, SSK, P4, C3fp1ck, Llk, C1bk2cp, P2, C2fp1ck, C1bk2cp, P2, C2fp1ck, Llk, C1bk3cp, P4, K2 tog, K7) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 71: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K7, SSK, P5, C3fk3ck, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, C3fk3ck, P5, K2 tog, K7) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 73: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K9, P4, C1bk3cp, C3fp1ck, P2, Llk, C1bk2cp, C2fp1ck, Llk, P2, C1bk3cp, C3fp1ck, P4, K9) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 75: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K8, SSK, P3, K2 tog, K2, Lrp, P2, C3fp1ck, C1bk3cp, P2, C3fp1ck, C1bk3cp, P2, Llp, K2, SSK, P3, K2 tog, K8) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 77: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K8, SSK, P2, K2 tog, Llk, K2, Lrp, P4, C3fk3ck, P4, C3fk3ck, P4, Llp, K2, Llk, SSK, P2, K2 tog, K8) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

** Rows 69 and 77 were increased by 14; Row 73 was increased by 28.
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Row 79: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K8, SSK, P, K2 tog, K3, Llk, P4, C1bk3cp, C3fp1ck, P2, C1bk3cp, C3fp1ck, P4, Lrk, K3, SSK, P, K2 tog, K8) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 81: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K10, P, K2 tog, K3, P3, K2 tog, K2, Lrp, P2, Llp, C3fp1ck, C1bk3cp, Lrp, P2, Llp, K2, SSK, P3, K3, SSK, P, K10) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2] ** this row increased the stitch count by 14.

Row 83: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K9, SSK, P, K2 tog, K2, P2, K2 tog, K2, Llk, P5, Llp, C3fk3ck, Lrp, P5, Lrk, K2, SSK, P2, K2, SSK, P, K2 tog, K9) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 85: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K9, SSK, P, K2 tog, K, P, K2 tog, Lrk, K3, Llk, P5, C1bk3cp, C3fp1ck, P5, Lrk, K3, Llk, SSK, P, K, SSK, P, K2 tog, K9) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 87: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K9, SSK, P14, K2 tog, Lrk, K2, Lrp, P2, Llp, K2, Llk, SSK, P14, K2 tog, K9) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2] ** this row increased the stitch count by 14

Row 89: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K11, P13, K2 tog, Lrk, K3, Lrp, P4, Llp, K3, Llk, SSK, P13, K11) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2] ** this row increased the stitch count by 28

Row 91: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K10, SSK, P12, K2 tog, Lrk, K4, P6, K4, Llk, SSK, P12, SSK, K10) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2] ** this row increased the stitch count by 14

Row 93: Bind off. You’re done! Now if it’s wool, soak it in a wool wash solution, rinse, squeeze out as much water as you can, lay it out in a beach towel and roll it and the beach towel together into a log and walk on the log (to squeeze out as much water as possible), then pin out on a large surface (I use the guest bed). The lines down the bits between the cabled panels should all be straight, and the cabled parts should be stretched out (the garter part will try to compress them some). Put a fan on it and let it dry, patting yourself on the back for a job well done!

If it’s acrylic, I’ve found the easiest way to kill it is to put several towels on a flat surface and pin the shawl out as stretched as I can get it, then steam it using an iron held 1/8 inch above the yarn. If you let the iron touch it, it will flatten the yarn weirdly, if it’s too far away the yarn doesn’t get hot enough and will snap back to the unstretched position. You should be able to see the yarn move slightly when the steam hits it, kind of shrinking and then relaxing. You may want to go around the edges again for good measure. Then pat yourself on the back and you’re done!

You may want to spray some starch on the edges to help them lay flat.

New design coming!

I'm 95% done designing the next prayer shawl, which will be more of a cape, actually, due to not much in the way of lacey holes and lots of cables. It probably won't be for beginning knitters, except maybe for the fearless ones. It will be dedicated to Kathy Kelly, founder of Voices in the Wilderness and also co-coordinator for Voices for Creative NonViolence. More about her when the pattern comes out.

Picture this: the cables will start as a single strand, which grows almost like a vine and spirals, ever enlarging as it reaches the edge until it is a whirlpool. I was thinking of tornadoes, maelstroms and spirals as I designed this, but now I feel it is quite beautiful. There will be elongated diamonds separating each cable panel (the only lace element), and an edge that would be easy to add buttonholes to if one wanted to fasten it around themselves.

Sometimes lace just isn't warm enough for some people. This should WARM them! My lace shawls fall off my shoulders a lot. This should stay on. I looked for cabled shawls and didn't see many at all and nothing like this one. How did it happen? I woke up at 1:00 in the morning with my brain just going. I contemplated God, chaos theory, activists, and the meaning of life, then this shawl popped into my head as a picture. Then I had to figure out how to make the yarn do what the picture required. Like so many other lace patterns, it just flew off the needles almost as if it had been already designed and I just had to remember how it was done.

The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly

Let's start this off with the good. I found a wonderful blog that tells how to make your own yarn swift! You know, those spindly-spinny things that help you move yarn between hanks, cones and balls. So if you'd like to get more into hand dyeing wool, or just a better way to wind hank or cone yarn into balls, here it is! I made one in a few hours with a miter box and power drill, spending around $2 on parts - the long bolt and some washers. I had the rest sitting in the garage.

Here it is: http://www.craftydiversions.com/patterns/homemade_yarn_swift.htm - THANK YOU Anne Kuo Lukito! You can buy a .pdf of the directions from her for just $2 on her site.

The only thing I'd like to add is, be sure to drill straight down when you make the hole in the center for the main bolt that holds it all together. Mine's off so one part of the swift is higher than the other now. Live and learn!

The Bad and Ugly
Sigh. Someone had written to me when I posted about charity knitting that on a certain reservation in the USA where handknit items were donated, a lot were just thrown away. So it was no little surprise to see this blog entry about the outcomes of some handmade afghans being sent to Afghanistan. Yes, being a people of rich artistic traditions in textiles, they don't seem to appreciate our handmade blankets of cheap acrylic.

Adieu Warm Woolies

Their website states:

"Dear Warm Woolies Friends,

Warm Woolies has decided to cease operating at the end of 2009.

Warm Woolies has always relied on relationships with international adoption agencies and international relief efforts to distribute our pieces overseas. Over the past year, due to matters beyond our control, these agencies and efforts are no longer able to distribute our pieces. Without these distribution channels, we are no longer able to fulfill our mission of providing children around the world with warm clothing."

Afghans for Afghans is still in operation and does almost the same thing.

Sally's Slippers

This pattern, a reworking of the "Felted Slippers" found on Midnattsol's blog is dedicated to Sally Fallon, a tireless worker to reach the masses with her message of how to be healthy. She's taken on the work of Weston A. Price, built upon what he started, and helps run the Weston A. Price Foundation (with a great group of other people like Mary Enig and Chris Masterjohn, to name a few). She co-authored the bestselling book "Nourishing Traditions" and has written several other books as well.

Weston A. Price was the world's most interesting dentist. He traveled the world, living with Eskimos and headhunters to find out why tribal people had perfect teeth while those in the industrialized world had crooked teeth with lots of cavities - what he found surpassed his own expectations as the nutritional differences also seemed to produce overall health and even emotional stability. He then made it his mission to bring what he learned about nutrition and health to the attention of the public, publishing his book "Nutrition and Physical Degeneration" and running studies on nutrition in the cities of America.

The Pattern

This is a fun way to make slippers. You knit a series of squares, in alternating directions, then sew a few seams and it magically becomes a slipper. Throw it in the wash to shrink it down and you get a wonderful warm soft cushiony slipper to warm your feet all winter. This is a great stashbusting project because each square can be a different color and you can use up all those odds and ends of wool leftover from other projects. If the yarn is too thin you can strand - use two or more strands together to make the thicknesses match. The only thing you need to be careful of is that all of the yarn you use needs to be "feltable" - that is, no superwash or acrylic here! Use wool.

To begin, knit up a square of the yarn you want to use in garter stitch and put it through your wash and dry cycle to see how much it's going to shrink (if you're knitting these for a charity and it doesn't matter what size the slippers wind up you can skip this part!). Get your gauge for the project from the shrunken swatch.

Then look up the size you want to make on my handy chart and see how big your squares need to be. In my chart I figured for 25% shrinkage but depending on the yarn it may be more or less so a swatch may be more reliable.

You'll begin by making square 1, using enough stitches to get the size square you'll need, and making twice as many rows as you have stitches going across (so if you cast on 12 stitches you'll do 24 rows in garter stitch). You can easily count rows by counting ridges and you'll know you're done when you have as many ridges on both sides as you do stitches on the needle. In my example I'm using 10 stitches and knitting 20 rows, or 10 rows of ridges.


After the first square, check that it is the right size (if you're using the chart) by tugging the sides out to make it square and measuring. Then bind off so you have just one stitch on the needles. From here on, you will always use the same number of stitches as in the first square to make the rest of the squares, and the same number of rows (sometimes one less on one side to make it come out at the right corner).


Cast on enough stitches to get the right number for the next square, counting the one stitch you still have on the needles. This will be square number 2. Knit until you have enough rows for a square (same number of ridges as you have stitches - don't stop when it "looks" like a square). Bind off so the last stitch will be diagonal from where the current square is attached to square one. Again, keep the last stitch on the needle.


Cast on enough stitches to make another square, like you did for square 2. Knit two rows. On the third row, knit all but the last stitch. Pick up the closest stitch you just bound off from square 2 by inserting the needle through one side of the loop. Then knit that together with the last stitch. Do this every time the row ends against square #2. Bind this square off so your last stitch will be down by square #2, keeping the last stitch on the needle.


Pick up stitches from the edge of square #2 on the other needle. If you have more than the number you need, continue binding off until you have the right number of stitches on your needles. Knit this square as you did the last one, picking up stitches from the bound off edge of square #1 and binding off so the last stitch is away from square #1. Pat yourself on the back, you're halfway done!

Pick up enough stitches along the top of the square you just completed to knit square number 5, picking up stitches from the bound off edge of square number 3 as you get to them at the end of the rows and knitting them together with the last stitch from the row.

When you finish square number 5, bind off so the last stitch is toward square number 3. Pick up enough stitches from square number 3 to knit another square (you may want to bind off another stitch to make sure the new square comes to the edge of square 3). Knit square number 6, making sure when you bind off that the last stitch is on the correct side to pick up stitches from the edge of the square you just completed to knit square number 7.

Knit square number 7, picking up stitches from the bound off edges of square number 5 as you come to it and knitting them together with the last stitch of the row. When you get enough rows on square 7, bind off so the last stitch is in the right position to start square number 8.

Pick up stitches from the edge of square 7 and knit square 8, binding off completely when you finish that square.

Now follow the diagram, matching up and stitching sides A and B, then C, D, and E. You've finished one slipper!

When you finish both slippers, put them through the full wash and dry cycle, high heat, to shrink them down. If they are still too big, you can do it again to shrink them more. If they are just a little tight, they will stretch to fit the foot comfortably in a day or two of use.

In case you want to use several colors and plan where they will be, here is the location of each square (unless you accidentally stitch it upside down!): 1 and 2 are the side flaps. 3 and 7 are the sides. 4 is the back, 5 is the bottom under the heel, 6 is the bottom under the toes, and 8 is the square on top of the toes.

Added 11/7/09: To make them non-skid, the cheapest and so far best way I've seen is to use 100% silicone caulk. You can do lines, dots, words (hand wash, or right and left), or cover the whole sole and spread with a craft stick or grooved spreader for extra traction.

Kingsolver Shawl Knitting Instructions

This is a triangular shawl, with a [yarnover, knit, yarnover] double increase down the center and an increase on both edges. I'm knitting it with a thin yarn on largish needles to enhance the laciness but I'm sure many readers will want to try different sizes of yarn and needles so that's how I'm writing the instructions. The shawl consists of 4 patterns, the Soaring Birds, the Ears of Wheat, the Climbing Leaves, and the Waves of Water. I've charted the patterns and will start you off with written out instructions but then refer you to the charts to continue for the specified amount.

I've decided that triangle shawls are the most flattering to most women, but they need to be big enough. I've seen many patterns that have the long side measure 7 feet. That uses a lot of yarn and you need pretty big needles to keep it all on! I highly recommend using circular needles.

Key:
K= knit
O = yarnover
SSK = slip, slip, knit - a right-leaning decrease
K2tog = knit two together - a left-leaning decrease
C** SL2,K1,P2SSO = slip 2 like for the K2tog, knit the next stitch, then pass the two slipped stitches over the one you just knit, for a centered double decrease. This is used on the Ears of Wheat and the Climbing Leaves.
SK2P - slip 1, knit 2 together as one, pass the slipped stitch over for a left-leaning decrease. This is used on the Soaring Birds and the Waves of Water.

To begin, cast on 3.

Row 1: K
Row 2 and all even rows, purl
Row 3: K, O, K, O, K
Row 5: (K, O)x4, K
Row 7: K, (O, K3, O, K)x2
Row 9: K, (O, K5, O, K)x2
Row 11: K, (O, K7, O, K)x2
Row 13: K, (O, K2, O, SSK, K, K2tog, O, K2, O, K)x2
Row 15: K, (O, K4, O, SK2P, O, K4, O, K)x2
Row 17: K, (O, K13, O, K)x2
Row 19: K, (O, K15, O, K)x2
Row 21: K, (O, K17, O, K)x2
Row 23: start second row of "birds" following the chart. Notice there will always be two knit stitches at the beginning and end of the rows, and 5 knit stitches between the "birds".



Continue until this section measures 12 inches measured in the direction indicated. You can click on the chart to see it bigger. The chart shows one of the two repeats so remember you need to do it twice.

Once it measures 12 inches, continue if necessary so you end after the purl row, the 7th row below the last "bird". Now you're ready to start the "Ears of Wheat" pattern. For these, each side of the center double increase should mirror the other side. If your stitch count is not off, the end of the row will also mirror the beginning. Where it says "repeat", you repeat until there aren't enough stitches to do another complete repitition. From there, stop at the nearest semicolon in the pattern to prevent your stitch count from being messed up, then knit the remainder to the center increase. Do the O, K, O for the center increase, then knit the same number of stitches as you did on the other side of the center increase. If it comes out exactly enough to repeat the pattern before the center, make sure you can still do an increase there - if necessary knit, yarnover, knit into the center stitch. I put semicolons in the second "repeat" to help you find where to start the pattern again. If you stopped at the first ; then resume the AFTER CENTER repeat at the second ; and if you stopped at the second ; then resume the AFTER CENTER pattern at the first ;

Transition Row 1: K, O, (K, K2tog, O, K; O, K2Tog; K2) repeat to center increase, knit any remaining stitches to center
CENTER: O, K, O,
AFTER CENTER: knit the mirror of the other side to resume (K2; K2tog, O, K; O, SSK, K) repeat to end, O, K (this should come out even at the end of the row).
Next Row: purl
Transition Row 3: K, O, (K, K2tog, O; K3, O, K2tog) repeat to center, breaking at semicolon if needed and adding knit stitches if needed, O, K, O at center, repeat mirror of other side to resume (K2tog, O, K3; O, SSK, K) repeat to end, O, K
Next Row: purl
Transition Row 5: K, O, K, K2tog, O, (K5, O, C**, O) repeat to center, adding knit stitches if needed, O, K, O at center, repeat mirror of other side to resume(O, C**, O, K5) repeat to end, O, SSK, K, O, K


Begin Ears of Wheat Pattern (for all continue as above, knitting extra stitches near center and using the O, K, O increase in the center, knitting the same number of extra stitches on the other side. On purl rows, purl across center. Count the number of stitches purled up to the center from the last knit stitch and purl that number on the other side of the center before knitting one and resuming the P7, K pattern):
Row 1: P3, (K, P7) to center...(P7, K), purl last 3 stitches.
Row 2: K, O, K2, (P, O, K2, C**, K2, O) repeat to center...(O, K2, C**, K2, O, P)repeat to end, K2, O, K
Row 3: P4, (K, P7) to center... (P7, K), purl last 4 stitches.
Row 4: K, O, K3, (P, O, K2, C**, K2, O) repeat to center...(O, K2, C**, K2, O, P)repeat to end, K3, O, K
Row 5: P5, (K, P7) to center... (P7, K), purl last 5 stitches.
Row 6: K, O, SSK, K2, O, (P, O, K2, C**, K2, O) repeat to center...(O, K2, C**, K2, O, P)repeat to end, O, K2, K2tog, O, K
Row 7: P6, (K, P7) to center... (P7, K), purl last 6 stitches.
Row 8: K, O, K, SSK, K2, O, (P, O, K2, C**, K2, O) repeat to center...(O, K2, C**, K2, O, P)repeat to end, O, K2, K2tog, K, O, K
Row 9: P7, (K, P7) to center... (P7, K), purl last 7 stitches.
Row 10: K, O, K2, SSK, K2, O, (P, O, K2, C**, K2, O) repeat to center...(O, K2, C**, K2, O, P)repeat to end, O, K2, K2tog, K2, O, K
Row 11: P8, (K, P7) to center... (P7, K), purl last 8 stitches.
Row 12: K, O, K3, SSK, K2, O, (P, O, K2, C**, K2, O) repeat to center...(O, K2, C**, K2, O, P)repeat to end, O, K2, K2tog, K3, O, K
Row 13: purl
Row 14: K, O, K2, (O, K, C**, K, O; K3) repeat to center...(K3; O, K, C**, K, O) repeat to end, K2, O, K
Row 15: purl
Row 16: K, O, K4, (O, C**, O; K5) repeat to center... (K5; O, C**, O) repeat to end, K4, O, K
Row 17: purl
Row 18: K, O, K2, SSK, K2, O, (P, O, K2, C**, K2, O) repeat to center... (O, K2, C**, K2, O, P) repeat to end, O, K2, K2tog, K2, O, K
Row 19: P8, (K, P7) repeat to center... (P7, K), purl last 8 stitches
Row 20: K, O, K3, SSK, K2, O, (P, O, K2, C**, K2, O) repeat to center... (O, K2, C**, K2, O, P) repeat to end, O, K2, SSK1, K3, O, K
Row 21: P9, (K, P7) repeat to center... (P7, K), purl last 9 stitches
Row 22: K, O, (P, O, K2, C**, K2, O) repeat to center... (O, K2, C**, K2, O, P) repeat to end, O, K
Row 23: P2, (K, P7) repeat to center... (P7, K), purl last 2 stitches
Row 24: K, O, K, (P, O, K2, C**, K2, O) repeat to center... (O, K2, C**, K2, O, P) repeat to end, K, O, K
Row 25: P3, (K, P7) repeat to center... (P7, K), purl last 3 stitches
Row 26: K, O, K2, (P, O, K2, C**, K2, O) repeat to center... (O, K2, C**, K2, O, P) repeat to end, K2, O, K
Row 27: P4, (K, P7) repeat to center…(P7, K), purl last 4 stitches
Row 28: K, O, K3, (P, O, K2, C**, K2, O) repeat to center... (O, K2, C**, K2, O, P) repeat to end, K3, O, K
Row 29: P5, (K, P7) repeat to center…(P7, K), purl last 5 stitches
Row 30: K, O, SSK, K2, (P, O, K2, C**, K2, O) repeat to center... (O, K2, C**, K2, O, P) repeat to end, K2, K2tog, O, K
Row 31: purl
Row 32: K, O, K, SSK, K, O, (K3; O, K, C**, K, O) repeat to center... (O, K, C**, K, O, K3) repeat to end, O, K, K2tog, K, O, K
Row 33: purl
Row 34: K, O, K, (O, C**, O; K5) repeat to center...(K5; O, C**, O) repeat to end, K, O, K

The Ears of Wheat section needs to be at least 6 inches. If you are using lace weight yarn and small needles it may not, so continue the pattern until it does. It's ok to make it more than 6 inches but you'll need more yarn then. If you are using larger yarn you may find it will become very large; in that case you can leave out a couple rows in the center of each "Ear of Wheat" - where the rows are identical except for the edge where you increase it.



Climbing Leaves Section

This pattern is really just two rows of knit pattern then the reverse of them. From here on out all rows on the wrong side are just purled. When you get to the center increase, you'll knit the reverse row on the other half, which is the second row above or below the one you just knit from the chart.

I'll write out the first four rows you'll knit, showing the edge stitches I used for the edge increases. If you shortened the Ears of Wheat or added rows it probably won't match mine. To begin this pattern, you pick the nearest O, K, O from the row you last knit and line it up with the column of O, K, O's from the charted pattern. You'll have to count backwards to see how many stitches of the pattern you can do, using the semicolons in the written instructions if needed to see where the increases and decreases balance out. An easier way, if you prefer, is you can just knit any extra stitches at the beginning, end, and center, not trying to break the pattern and figure out where to start. Regardless, as above, just knit any remaining stitches from the edges to the pattern and in the center before and after the center increase. And remember if the pattern comes out exactly at the center increase, use the knit, yarnover, knit in the center stitch to continue increasing there.

As you may notice, this pattern has a wonky stitch count - every other pair of rows has an extra stitch.

Continue the Climbing Leaves pattern for at least 6 inches, but longer for a larger shawl. The first row is the hardest but after that it's really easy to remember.

Row 1: K, O, K8, (O, K, O, SSK, K, K2tog; O, K2tog; K2tog, O; K5, O, K) repeat to center... (K, O, K5, O, K2tog; SSK, O; SSK, K, K2tog, O, K, O) repeat to end, K8, O, K

Row 2 and all even rows: purl

Row 3: K, O, K, O, K, K2tog, K3, SSK, O, K, (O, K3, O, C**; K, K2tog, O; K2tog, K3, SSK, O, K)repeat to center... (K, O, K2tog K3, K2tog; O SSK, K; C**, O, K3, O) repeat to end, K, O, K2tog, K3, SSK, O, K, O, K

Row 5: K, O, K2, SSK, O, SSK, K, K2tog, O, K, O, (K, O, K5, O, K2tog; SSK, O; SSK, K, K2tog, O, K, O) repeat to center...(O, K, O, SSK, K, K2tog; O, K2tog; K2tog, O; K5, O, K) repeat to end, O, K, O, SSK, K, K2tog, O, K2tog, K2, O, K

Row 7: K, O, K, O, SSK, K, C**, O, K3, O, (K, O, K2tog K3, K2tog; O SSK, K; C**, O, K3, O) repeat to center... (O, K3, O, C**; K, K2tog, O; K2tog, K3, SSK, O, K)repeat to end, O, K3, O, C**, K, SSK, O, K, O, K


You need to end this on one of the rows that has the C**/S2KP2 double decrease, so if that wasn't your last row, knit one more. There is no transition to the Waves of Water pattern, just center one of the yarnovers on the first row over the knit stitch in one of the O, K, O columns (not the stem). Make sure the edges and center of the shawl are still being increased. You don't need to reverse this pattern on the other side of the center increase, just be sure it has the same number of "extra" stitches on both sides. I put the last Ears of Wheat row in there for reference, but yours may be the other row that has the double decrease (which would be on the other side of the center).

When I bound off I used larger needles but it was still too tight. One way you may be able to prevent this is to knit one last row of just alternating knit, yarnover then purl then bind off. If you had extra edge you could block it to come to points for a more scalloped edge, which would be attractive.

New Shawl Coming

The muse has bitten me again. I'm inspired to create a new shawl, a triangle one for a change, dedicated to Barbara Kingsolver. I'm swatching busily.

Barbara Kingsolver is not a unique voice in the world of women in sustainable agriculture, she is a member in a long line of female voices in this field. But I chose her to represent the rest, women like Helen Nearing, Ruth Stout and Deborah Koons Garcia, because her essay "A Fist in the Eye of God" is what really got me thinking hard about what I eat.

First installment - almost the edge - I can't believe 4 lines can create such a complicated and graceful knit pattern!

Recycling t-shirts

After reading "How Europe Underdeveloped Africa" by Walter Rodney, I'm feeling guilty again about the ways underdeveloped labor is exploited for our benefit. Nowhere does this happen as badly as clothing (well, and food... and toys). I have terrible pangs of conscience whenever I buy a new item of clothing now. Was the cotton genetically modified, requiring more irrigation water and chemicals to grow, and driving cotton farmers into debt-related suicide? Were the workers in the mills that turned the raw cotton into yarn exposed to terrible working conditions and underpaid? Who made the shirts - were they paid a fair wage?

I just feel better recycling old shirts. Salvation Army is becoming my best friend. I feel like it doesn't count if I get it used.

I found a great book on treating t-shirts (or any cotton clothing, really) to make it more decorative. One of the techniques is called "Discharge Dyeing". You use a bleach solution to remove color from a dark colored shirt instead of dyeing a white shirt. For the one in the picture I used a solution of 1 cup bleach to 3 cups water. If you worry about the bleach/dioxin thing you can try the RIT decoloring stuff instead. I laid the shirt out flat then spider walked my fingers to scrunch it into mountains and then used some rubber bands and cotton yarn to tie it into a tight bundle. I submerged it in the bleach solution until it got the shade I wanted then put it in a deactivating solution I had ready - 1/4 cup vinegar to 1 quart (4 cups) water.

The cool thing about discharge dyeing is that you can use shirts with stains, bleach spots, whatever, and they'll look great when you're done!

Knitting Activists Needed!

Help spread the word - Code Pink is seeking donation of pink or green 4" X 4" squares for a giant quilt as part of their demonstration for peace in the Middle East at the White House on Mother's Day. For more information see their website.

Anna Baltzer Wings of Peace Shawl

This shawl is dedicated to Anna Baltzer, a peace advocate for Palestine. Interestingly to me, she is Jewish and is advocating on behalf of the Palestinians and she is not alone. You can see the video she has made here. You can buy it here.

One of the startling things to me is the almost complete media blackout in America of what is really happening in Palestine, which she covers in her video. Anna's colleague Kara was traveling between the U.S. and Palestine when she came across two conflicting Newsweek issues. The international version had a sympathetic article about the "Plight of the Palestinians" at the top. The same article was not only absent from the corresponding U.S. Newsweek cover (see the top line)... it was omitted from the entire magazine! How can we exercise our democratic responsibilities and make informed choices when we are being blocked from getting important information?

Yes, and I just found out about the Campbell-Bennerman report, it is jaw-dropping, eye bugging important toward understanding the politics of this thing.

This was knit on #10 needles using Peace Fleece's worsted weight "Negotiation Grey" - it took three skeins and about 10 feet more - a total of around 603 yards. I love that the color is negotiation grey. It reminds me of the efforts of Beyond War - where they say that part of the roadblock to peace is a culture that sees things in black and white - either a good guy or a bad guy, rather than shades of grey - we all have good and bad in us really and anyone can change.

Wings of Peace Shawl


This pattern looks very long but it is repetitive, especially once you get to the long feathers, it's easy but looks complicated. Really. You may find you can knit long stretches without even looking at the pattern.

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND you download a .pdf of this pattern to print out, the formatting below is messy. download now.

Abbreviations:
K - Knit
YO - yarn over
SSK - slip, slip, knit slipped stitches tog.
SSSK - slip, slip, slip, knit three slipped stitches together.
K2 TOG - knit two stitches as if they were one.
K3 TOG - knit three stitches as if they were one.
KFB - knit front and back of loop - making two stitches from one.
K3 INTO 1 - knit, yo, knit in the same stitch - making three stitches from one.
S2KP2– centered double decrease. sl2, k1, p2sso is an abbreviation for slip two, knit one, pass two over. Slip two stitches together as if to knit, knit one stitch, then pass the two slipped stitches over the stitch you just knit. This results in a centered double decrease.
PPSO - pass previous stitch over.
BO - bind off. When it says how many to bind off, count by the number of finished stitch loops you’ve done. When binding off to the next feather - on the purl side the stitch left on the needle should be the first feather stitch you come to. On the knit side you bind off to the last stitch BEFORE the first feather stitch. You’ll see when you get there. In order to keep the edges from curling outward, bind off VERY LOOSELY!

CO 77
Row 1: knit
Row 2: purl
Row 3: knit
Row 4: purl
Row 5: K1, YO, K7, YO, K1,
(YO, K1, YO, K7)X3, (YO, K1)X2, YO, K7, YO, K1,
(YO, K1, YO, K7)X3, (YO, K1)X2, YO, K7, YO, K1
Row 6: purl
Row 7: K2, YO, SSK, K3, K2 TOG, YO, K2,
(YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, K2 TOG)X3, YO, K2,
YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, K2 TOG, YO, K2,
(YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, K2 TOG)X3, YO, K2,
YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, K2 TOG, YO, K2
Row 8: purl
Row 9: K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K, K2TOG, YO, SSK, K3 INTO 1, K, YO K,
(K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK)X3, K3 INTO 1, K, YO, K,
K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K3 INTO 1, K, YO, K,
(K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK)X3, K3 INTO 1, K, YO, K,
K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K3 INTO 1
Row 10: purl
Row 11: K, K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K, K3 INTO 1, K2, YO, K, YO, K2,
(K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K)X3, K3 INTO 1, K2, YO, K, YO, K2,
K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K, K3 INTO 1, K2, YO, K, YO, K2,
(K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K)X3, K3 INTO 1, K2, YO, K, YO, K2,
K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K, K3 INTO 1, K
Row 12: purl
Row 13: KFB,
K, K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO, SSK,
(K, K3 INTO 1, K, K3 TOG, YO, K, YO, SSSK)X4,
K, K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO, SSK,
K, K3 INTO 1, K, K3 TOG, YO, K, YO, SSSK,
K, K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO, SSK,
(K, K3 INTO 1, K, K3 TOG, YO, K, YO, SSSK)X4,
K, K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO, SSK,
K, K3 INTO 1, K, KFB
Row 14: purl
Row 15: K2, YO, K4, K2 TOG,
YO, K2, (YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, K2 TOG)X5,
YO, K2, (YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, K2 TOG)X2,
YO, K2, (YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, K2 TOG)X5,
YO, K2, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K4, YO, K2
Row 16: purl
Row 17: KFB, K2TOG, YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K3 INTO 1, K, YO, K,
(K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK)X5, K3 INTO 1, K, YO, K,
(K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK)X2, K3 INTO 1, K, YO, K,
(K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK)X5, K3 INTO 1, K, YO, K,
K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, KFB
Row 18: purl
Row 19: KFB, K2, YO, K, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K, K3 INTO 1, K2, YO, K, YO, K2,
(K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K)X5,
K3 INTO 1, K2, YO, K, YO, K2,
(K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K)X2,
K3 INTO 1, K2, YO, K, YO, K2,
(K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K)X5,
K3 INTO 1, K2, YO, K, YO, K2,
K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, S2KP2, YO, K, YO, K2, KFB
Row 20: purl
Row 21: KFB, K, K2 TOG, YO, K2, YO, K3, YO, SSK,
(K, K3 INTO 1, K, K3 TOG, YO, K, YO, SSSK)X6,
K, K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO, SSK
(K, K3 INTO 1, K, K3 TOG, YO, K, YO, SSSK)X2,
K, K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO, SSK
(K, K3 INTO 1, K, K3 TOG, YO, K, YO, SSSK)X6,
K, K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO, K2, YO, SSK, K, KFB
Row 22: purl
Row 23: K2, K3 TOG, YO, K3, YO, K2, K2 TOG,
(YO, SSK, K3, K2 TOG, YO, K3)X7, YO, K2,
(YO, SSK, K3, K2 TOG, YO, K3)X2,
YO, SSK, K3, K2 TOG, YO, K2, YO, K3
(YO, SSK, K3, K2 TOG, YO, K3)X6,
YO, SSK, K3, K3 TOG, YO, K3, YO, K3, YO, SSSK, K2
Row 24: purl
Row 25: K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K3 INTO 1, K,
(YO, SSK, K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG)X7,
YO, SSK, K3 INTO 1, K, YO, K, K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG,
(YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG)X2,
YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K3 INTO 1, K, YO, K,
(K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK)X7
K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG, YO, K, K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K
Row 26: purl
Row 27: K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K, K3 INTO 1, K2, YO, K, YO, K2
(K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K)X7, K3 INTO 1, K2, YO, K, YO, K2
(K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K)X3, K3 INTO 1, K2, YO, K, YO, K2,
(K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K)X7, K3 INTO 1, K2, YO, K, YO, K2,
K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK
Row 28: purl
Row 29: (K, YO, SSSK, K, K3 INTO 1, K, K3 TOG, YO)X22, K
Row 30: purl
Row 31: K2, YO, (SSK, K3, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO)X21, SSK, K3, K2 TOG, YO, K2
Row 32: purl
Row 33: K3 INTO 1, K2,
(YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, K3 INTO 1, K2, K2 TOG)X10,
YO, SSK, K, K2TOG, YO, SSK, K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG,
(YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K2, K3 INTO 1)X10,
YO, SSK, K, K2 TOG, YO, K2, K3 INTO 1
Row 34: purl
Row 35: K, K3 INTO 1, K2, (K2 TOG, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K3 INTO 1, K3)X10,
K2 TOG, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K, K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG,
(YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K3, K3 INTO 1, K2 TOG)X10, YO, S2KP2, YO, SSK, K2, K3 INTO 1, K
Row 36: purl
Row 37: K2, K3 INTO 1, K4, SSK, (YO, SSK, K, K3 INTO 1, K4, K3 TOG)X10, YO, SSK, K2,
K3 INTO 1, K2, K2 TOG, (YO, SSSK, K4, K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG)X10, YO, K2 TOG, K4,
K3 INTO 1, K2
Row 38: purl
Row 39: SSK, K, K3 INTO 1, K4, K3 TOG, (YO, K3, K3 INTO 1, K4, K3 TOG)X10,
YO, K4, K3 INTO 1, K4, YO, (SSSK, K4, K3 INTO 1, K3, YO)X10,
SSSK, K4, K3 INTO 1, K, K2 TOG
Row 40: purl
Row 41: K3, (K3 INTO 1, K4, K3 TOG, YO, SSK, K2)X10,
K3 INTO 1, K4, K2 TOG, YO, SSSK, K3, K3 INTO 1, K3, K3 TOG, YO, SSK,
(K4, K3 INTO 1, K2, K2 TOG, YO, SSSK)X10, K4, K3 INTO 1, K3
Row 42: purl
Row 43: (SSK, K2, K3 INTO 1, K4, K3 TOG, YO)X11, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5,
(YO, SSSK, K4, K3 INTO 1, K2, K2 TOG)X11
Row 44: purl
Row 45: (SSK, K2, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG, YO)X11, SSK, K4, K3 INTO 1, K4, K2 TOG,
(YO, SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K2, K2 TOG)X11
Row 46: purl
Row 47: (SSK, K2, K3 INTO 1, K5, K3 TOG, YO)X11, SSK, K4, K3 INTO 1, K4, K2 TOG,
(YO, SSSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K2, K2 TOG)X11
Row 48: purl
Row 49: SAME AS ROW 47
Row 50: purl
Row 51: (K4, K3 INTO 1, K5, K3 TOG, YO)X11, SSK, K4, K3 INTO 1, K4, K2 TOG,
(YO, SSSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K4)X11
Row 52: purl
Row 53: (SSK, K3, K3 INTO 1, K5, K3 TOG, YO)X11, SSK, K4, K3INTO 1, K4, K2 TOG,
(YO, SSSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K3, K2 TOG)X11
Row 54: purl
Row 55: SAME AS ROW 53
Row 56: purl
Row 57: (K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K3 TOG, YO)X11, K6, K3 INTO 1, K6,
(YO, SSSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5)X11
Row 58: purl
Row 59: (SSK, K4, K3 INTO 1, K5, K3 TOG, YO)X11, SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG,
(YO, SSSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K4, K2 TOG)X11
Row 60: purl
Row 61: SAME AS ROW 59
Row 62: purl
Row 63: (K6, K3 INTO 1, K5, K3 TOG, YO)X11, SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG,
(YO, SSSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K6)X11
Row 64: purl
Row 65: (SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K3 TOG, YO)X4,, SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG,
(YO, K, YO, SSK, K11, K2 TOG)X4, YO, K, (YO, SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K3 TOG)X2, YO, SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG, (YO, SSSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG)X2, (YO, K, YO, SSK, K11, K2 TOG)X4, YO, K, YO, SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG, (YO, SSSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG)X4
Row 66: purl
Row 66: purl
Row 67: (SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K3 TOG, YO)X3, SSK, K, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG, YO, K, YO, SSK, K11, K2 TOG, (YO, K3, YO, SSK, K9, K2 TOG)X4, YO, K2, YO, SSSK,
(K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K3 TOG, YO, SSK)X2, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG, YO, SSSK,
K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG, YO, SSSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K3 TOG, YO, K2, YO,
(SSK, K9, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO)X4, SSK, K11, K2 TOG, YO, K,
YO, SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG, (YO, SSSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG)X3
Row 68: purl
Row 69: (SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K6, K2 TOG, YO)X2, SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG, YO, K, YO
SSK, K11, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K9, K2 TOG, (YO, K5, YO, SSK, K7, K2 TOG)X4,
YO, K4, YO, SSK, K11, K2 TOG, YO, K, YO, SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K6, K2 TOG, YO,
SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG, YO, SSK, K6, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG, YO, K, YO
SSK, K11, K2 TOG, YO, K4, YO, (SSK, K7, K2 TOG, YO, K5, YO)X4, SSK, K9, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K11, K2 TOG, YO, K, YO, SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG, (YO, SSK, K6, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG)X2
Row 70: purl
Row 71: (SSK, K12, K2 TOG, YO, K, YO)X2, SSK, K11, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO
SSK, K9, K2 TOG, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K7, K2 TOG, (YO, K7, YO, SSK, K5, K2 TOG)X4
YO, K6, YO, SSK, K9, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K12, K2 TOG,
YO, K, YO, SSK, K5, K3 INTO 1, K5, K2 TOG, YO, K, YO, SSK, K12, K2 TOG,
YO, K3, YO, SSK, K9, K2 TOG, YO, K6, YO, (SSK, K5, K2 TOG, YO, K7, YO)X4
SSK, K7, K2 TOG, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K9, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO,
SSK, K11, K2 TOG, (YO, K, YO, SSK, K12, K2 TOG)X2
Row 72: purl
Row 73: (SSK, K10, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO)X2, SSK, K9, K2 TOG, YO, K5, YO
SSK, K7, K2 TOG, YO, K7, YO, SSK, K5, K2 TOG, BO 71, SSK, PPSO,
K7, K2 TOG, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K10, K2 TOG, YO, K3, YO
K7, K3 INTO 1, K7, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K10, K2 TOG, YO, K5, YO,
SSK, K7, K2 TOG, BO 71, SSK, PPSO, K5, K2 TOG, YO, K7, YO
SSK, K9, K2 TOG, (YO, K3, YO, SSK, K10, K2 TOG)X2
Row 74a: purl to first section of bound-off stitches
Row 75a: BO 15, SSK, PPSO, K5, K2 TOG, YO, K7, YO, SSK, K7, K2 TOG, (YO, K5, YO, SSK, K8, K2 TOG)X2
Row 76a: purl to first section of bound-off stitches
Row 77a: SSK, K3, K2 TOG, YO, K9, YO, SSK, K5, K2 TOG, (YO, K7, YO, SSK, K6, K2 TOG)X2
Row 78a: purl to first section of bound-off stitches
Row 79a: BO 15, SSK, PPSO, K3, K2 TOG, (YO, K9, YO, SSK, K4, K2 TOG)X2
Row 80a: purl to first section of bound-off stitches
Row 81a: Bind off to end (I did last two K2 TOG to round it more).


Row 74b: attach yarn to middle section so first row will be purl and purl to next bound off section.
Row 75b: SSK, K5, K2 TOG,YO, K7, YO, SSK, K8, K2 TOG, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K6, K3 INTO 1, K6, K2 TOG, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K8, K2 TOG, YO, K7, YO, SSK, K5, K2 TOG
Row 76b: purl
Row 77b: SSK, K3, K2 TOG, YO, K9, YO, SSK, K6, K2 TOG, YO, K7, YO, SSK, K13, K2 TOG, YO, K7, YO, SSK, K6, K2 TOG, YO, K9, YO, SSK, K3, K2 TOG
Row 78b: BO 16, purl the rest
Row 79b: BO 15, SSK, PPSO, K4, K2 TOG, YO, K9, YO, SSK, K11, K2 TOG, YO, K9, YO, SSK, K4, K2 TOG
Row 80b: BO 17, purl the rest
Row 81b: BO 16, SSK, PPSO, K9, K2 TOG
Row 82b: purl
Row 83b: SSK, K7, K2 TOG
Row 84b: purl
Row 85b: SSK, K5, K2 TOG
Row 86b: purl
Row 87b: SSSK, K, K3 TOG
Row 88b: purl 3 together, pass end through.

Row 74c: tie yarn on so next row is purl. BO 16, purl the rest.
Row 75c: (SSK, K8, K2 TOG, YO, K5, YO)X2, SSK, K7, K2 TOG, YO, K7, YO, SSK, K5, K2 TOG
Row 76c: purl
Row 77c: (SSK, K6, K2 TOG, YO, K7, YO)X2, SSK, K5, K2 TOG, YO, K9, YO, SSK, K3, K2 TOG
Row 78c: BO 16, purl the rest.
Row 79c: (SSK, K4, K2 TOG, YO, K9, YO)X2, SSK, K3, K2 TOG
Row 80c: bind off the rest.