The Rosalie Rosary Shawl (test pattern)

Rosalie Rosary Shawl

This can be knit in several gauges.
A: If your gauge is around 12-16 stitches per 4 inches, use the first set of numbers. You will need approximately 700 yards of yarn.
B: If it is 17-22 stitches per 4 inches use the second set of numbers. You will need approximately 850 yards of yarn, more if you intend to make it longer like a cape.
C: If it is 23 or higher use the third set of numbers. You will need approximately 1200 yards of yarn.


Rosary

You will also need a lightweight cross and 53 matching beads for the rosary. If you look on eBay you can find some pretty nice beads to use, or you can try a local craft store or even a flea market to find a necklace you can remove beads from. If you will be using the second method, you will also need 6 lightweight buttons, ¾” or larger for the wrong side, and 5 buttons about the same size for the front.

There are two ways to attach the rosary beads.

#1: If you are using thin yarn or large enough beads, you can put them right on the yarn as you knit. For this, you will need to be using wool yarn and the spit splice method. Where indicated, break the yarn leaving a 12” tail. Use a tapestry needle to string the beads. For the cross at the top, string 3 beads, the cross, then go back through the three beads. For the lower 5 loops of 10 beads each, make sure the loop is large enough to fit over the button you got for the other side, then knot it into the loop to keep it from growing or shrinking. Remove the needle, reattach the end to the ball of yarn using a spit splice, and continue knitting in pattern.

To do a spit splice, unravel the ends of the yarn and pull apart some so they are loose. Wet both ends, hold together overlapping the loosened parts, and roll them back and forth between your hands, creating heat to felt them together. You may want to test your yarn before using this method to be sure it can be spit spliced.

#2: The other way is to attach the beads after you are finished, using a strong thread and a lightweight button on the reverse side for added stability.

When you finish knitting the shawl and weaving in the ends, apply the rosary beads as follows: Cross and three beads centered on the upper right neck edge in the imaginary square where the neck edging and border edging meet - so it would be about ½” to ¾” from the top and right edge. Five sets of loops of 10 beads, starting with the bottom right edge, centered in the imaginary square where the bottom border and side edging meet, the other 4 at the corners of the zig-zags (inward and outward corners) on the right side.

Place a lightweight button on the wrong side of the shawl where the bead loop is to be. Using a needle and your thread, go through one of the button’s holes and the shawl, leaving a tail. Place 10 beads on the needle and thread, then go back through the shawl and button. Make sure the loop this makes is large enough to fit around the button for the other side, then do a few passes through the shawl and button to hold it in place and tie the thread ends together. It will be stronger if you go through two rows of knitting and not just one piece of yarn. For the cross, go through three beads, then the cross, then back through the three beads, with the button on the wrong side as above. You can use a spot of glue from a glue gun to hold the knot in place.

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This shawl uses the Fibonacci numbers. They are 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, 21, 34, 55, and on - you add the two previous numbers to get the next number. These numbers occur in nature a lot and often give results that are pleasing to the eye. In this case, you alternate the yarn over being before or after the knit section so the Fibonacci numbers are on alternating sides of the border edge.


These instructions are for a cape-type shawl that will measure 18”-20” from the neck down. For longer shawls, continue in pattern to the desired length.

Neck Edging
To begin cast on 35 (45, 54) [A (B, C)]
Row 1: knit, purl, repeat to end
Row 2: knit the knit stitches and purl the purled ones
Row 3: purl the knit stitches and knit the purled ones
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until piece measures 1.5 inches.

Shaping
4 (5, 6) stitches on either side are the border pattern. These will always be done in the moss stitch as above - knit the purls and purl the knits on the right side, knit the knits and purl the purls on the wrong side.

1
Row 1: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 4(5, 6) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 2 and all even rows: knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches and yarn overs (moss stitch the borders and stockinet the center).
1
Row 3: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 5(6, 7) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
2
Row 5: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 6 (7, 8) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 7: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 7 (8, 9) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
3
Row 9: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 8 (9, 10) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 11: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 9 (10, 11) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 13: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 10 (11, 12) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
5 * Rosary Method # 1 - add a loop of beads 2 (3, 4) stitches before the end of row 15 - ONLY if you will be binding off at Row 107
Row 15: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 11 (12, 13) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 17: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 12 (13, 14) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 19: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 13, (14, 15) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 21: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 14 ( 15,16) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 23: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 15 (16, 17) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
8 * Rosary Method # 1 - add a loop of beads 2 (3, 4) stitches before the end of row 25.
Row 25: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 16 (17, 18) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 27: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 17 (18, 19) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 29: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 18 (19, 20) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 31: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 19 (20, 21) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 33: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 20 (21, 22) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 35: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 21 (22, 23) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 37: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 22 (23, 24) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 39: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 23 (24, 25) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
13 * Rosary Method # 1 - add a loop of beads 2 (3, 4) stitches before the end of row 41.
Row 41: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 24 (25, 26) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 43: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 25 (26, 27) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 45: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 26 (27, 28) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 47: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 27 (28, 29) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 49: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 28 (29, 30) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 51: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 29 (30, 31) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 53: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 30 (31, 32) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 55: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 31 (32, 33) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 57: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 32 (33, 34) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 59: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 33 (34, 35) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 61: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 34 (35, 36) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 63: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 35 (36, 37) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 65: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 36 (37, 38) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
21 * Rosary Method # 1 - add a loop of beads 2 (3, 4) stitches before the end of row 67
Row 67: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 37 (38, 39) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 69: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 38 (39, 40) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 71: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 39 (40, 41) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 73: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 40 (41, 42) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 75: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 41 (42, 43) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 77: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 42 (43, 44) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 79: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 43 (44, 45) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 81: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 44 (45, 46) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 83: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 45 (46, 47) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 85: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 46 (47, 48) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 87: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 47 (48, 49) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 89: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 48 (49, 50) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 91: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 49 (50, 51) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 93: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 50 (51, 52) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 95: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 51 (52, 53) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 97: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 52 (53, 54) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 99: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 53 (54, 55) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 101: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 54 (55, 56) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.

** Alternate endings - If this is long enough, from here to the end of Row 107 do moss stitch all the way across, making yarn overs where indicated. Remember if you will be killing your acrylic or blocking the wool it will gain an inch or more. Every other row there will be two knits or two purls where the yarn over changed the count. It doesn’t matter much on the wrong side whether you knit or purl the yarn overs, but on the right side, be sure to follow the alternating knit, purl pattern for each repeated section. * Rosary Method # 1 - add a loop of beads 2 (3, 4) stitches before the end of row 103.

Row 103: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 55 (56, 57) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 105: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 56 (57, 58) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 107: Moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Yarn over, Knit 57 (58, 59) stitches, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
** Bind off loosely using a larger needle if you decided to end it here.
34 * Rosary Method # 1 - add a loop of beads 2 (3, 4) stitches before the end of row 109.
Row 109: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 58 (59, 60) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 111: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 59 (60, 61) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 113: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 60 (61, 62) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 115: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 61 (62, 63) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 117: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 62 (63, 64) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 119: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 63 (64, 65) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 121: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 64 (65, 66) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 123: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 65 (66, 67) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 125: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 66 (67, 68) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 127: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 67 (68, 69) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 129: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 68 (69, 70) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 131: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 69 (70, 71) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 133: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 70 (71, 72) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 135: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 71 (72, 73) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 139: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 72 (73, 74) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 141: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 73 (74, 75) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 143: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 74 (75, 76) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 145: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 75 (76, 77) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 147: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 76 (77, 78) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 149: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 77 (78, 79) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 151: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 78 (79, 80) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 153: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 79 (80, 81) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 155: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 80 (81, 82) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 157: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 81 (82, 83) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 159: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 82 (83, 84) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 161: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 83 (84, 85) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 163: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 84 (85, 86) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 165: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 85 (86, 87) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 167: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Knit 86 (87, 88) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.

Ending: Every other row there will be two knits or two purls where the yarn over changed the count. It doesn’t matter much on the wrong side whether you knit or purl the yarn overs, but on the right side, be sure to follow the alternating knit, purl pattern for each repeated section.

Row 169: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Moss stitch 87 (88, 89) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
* Rosary Method # 1 - add a loop of beads 2 (3, 4) stitches before the end of row 171.
Row 171: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Moss stitch 88 (89, 90) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 173: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Moss stitch 89 (90, 91) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 175: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Moss stitch 90 (91, 92) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.
Row 177: moss stitch the first 4 (5, 6) stitches. Moss stitch 91 (92, 93) stitches, yarn over, repeat 6 times, moss stitch remaining 4 (5, 6) stitches.

Bind off loosely.

New design coming!

Sr. Rosalie Bertell is a very interesting person.

Rosalie Bertell, Grey Nun of the Sacred Heart, received her Ph. D. degree in Biometrics with minors in Biology and Biochemistry from the Catholic University of America, in 1966. Since that time she has worked as a biometrician and environmental epidemiologist. By choice, Dr. Bertell works for the victims or potential victims of industrial, technological and military pollution with a particular emphasis on assisting the struggles of third world and indigenous people to preserve their Human Right to life and health. The major issues are the dangers associated with economic globalization, war and the proliferation of chemical and radioactive pollutants as the result of preparation for war and the toxic products and processes developed from weapons research and production.

The International Institute of Concern for Public Health (IICPH), of which she is Founder and Immediate Past President, opened its doors in 1984 in Toronto Canada and continues to serve as an institutional support for her work. She is also a founding member of the International Commission of Health Professionals, and the International Association of Humanitarian Medicine.

Among many projects she has headed, the most notable are: Director of the International Medical Commission Bhopal which investigated the aftermath of the Bhopal disaster in India, and organizer of the International Medical Commission Chernobyl to present testimony to the Permanent People's Tribunal. She assisted the people of the Philippines with problems stemming from toxic waste left by the U.S. Military on their abandoned Subic and Clark military bases. She has worked with the government of Ireland to hold Britain responsible for the radioactive pollution of the Irish Sea, and is assisting the Gulf War Veterans and the Iraqi citizens dealing with the illness called Gulf War Syndrome. She acted as Consultant to local, Provincial and Federal Governments, unions and citizen organizations.

She is the recipient of five honourary degrees. Among her many awards can be numbered the Alternative Nobel Prize, Right Livelihood Award; World Federalist Peace Award; Ontario Premier's Council on Health, Health Innovator Award; the United Nations Environment Programme Global 500 award and the Sean MacBride International Peace Prize. She has recently been selected to be one of the 1000 Peace Women nominated for the Nobel Peace Prize, 2005. Rosalie has published numerous articles, reviewed articles for professional journals and was editor of the journal, "International Perspectives in Public Health". Her books, "No Immediate Danger: Prognosis for a Radioactice Earth" and "Planet Earth: The Latest Weapon of War" can be obtained from IICPH. "Handbook For Estimating Health Effects From Exposure To Ionizing Radiation" intended for the health Professionals, which she edited, is also obtainable from IICPH.

I've realized that my header says these are supposed to be easy designs, and lately they haven't been exactly something a beginner could easily tackle. So this new design will be a very easy one. Very very easy. You could probably knit it under your desk at work, or in a meeting. Once you "get" it, you may not even have to look at the pattern. Yeah, that easy. It will also use the Fibonacci numbers, thanks to my son liking the book "Penrose, the Mathematical Cat".

Kathy Kelly Cabled Capelet

This pattern is dedicated to Kathy Kelly, a friend of a friend and someone who exemplifies the kind of woman warrior for peace I like to bring more attention to. She was a founding member of Voices in the Wilderness, and also Voices for Creative Non-Violence. She's been called "probably the most respected leader in the American peace movement." She has put herself in the line of fire in fact-finding missions to very dangerous places, and has been imprisoned several times because of the work she is doing.

download now

Use a worsted weight (or thicker) yarn with stitch gauge at most 18 stitches per 4 inches with whatever size needles it takes you to get that gauge. I'm doing mine with Lion Brand Fisherman's wool yarn and using #8 circulars (but it is NOT knit in the round!)

Stitch Abbreviations:

K - knit
P - purl
SSK - slip, slip, knit - a
K2tog - knit two stitches together
K3 into 1 - into the same stitch - knit, yarn over, knit
Lifted increase stitches - this is an almost invisible increase done by knitting into a stitch below the current row. See the video on http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to-knit-lifted-increase-176501/ if you have trouble with this stitch. There are 4 versions:
Llk - insert the left needle into the stitch beneath the stitch just knitted & knit it.
Llp - insert the left needle into the stitch beneath the stitch just knitted & purl it.
Lrk - insert the right needle into the stitch beneath the next stitch to be knitted, transfer that stitch to the left needle and knit it.
Lrp - insert the right needle into the stitch beneath the next stitch to be knitted, transfer that stitch to the left needle and purl it.

This complicated looking stitch notation will get easy to use once you get used to it. I wrote out the first two in the pattern so you can test your understanding of how to read it. Believe me, as the pattern goes on this will make things SO much easier to read!
C - cable stitch - after the C is the number of stitches you slip to the cable needle, then f if you hold it to the front or b if you hold it to the back, k and a number tells you to knit that many stitches next; or p and a number tells you to purl that many stitches next; then c and either k or p to show you’re now to knit or purl all the stitches from the cable needle. For example C2fk1ck would be slip 2 to the cable needle, hold to the front, knit 1, then knit the 2 from the cable needle.

I will use the format [first edge], (repeat the stitches inside these the number given - to make the 7 panels), additional stitches, [second edge]. If you want to change the edge to seed stitch or widen it or add buttonholes, that should make it clear where you can do that.

Cast on 57.

Row 1: knit

Row 2 and all even rows: purl

Row 3: [K2, P2, K3], (K2, P, K, P, K) X 7, K, [K3, P2, K2]

Row 5: [P2, K2, P2, K], (K2, P, K, P, K) X 7, K, [K, P2, K2, P2]

Row 7: repeat Row 3

Row 9: [P2, K2, P2, K], (K3 into 1, K, P, K, Llk, P, K) X 7, K3 into 1, [K, P2, K2, P2]

Row 11: [K2, P2, K2, K2tog], (K3 into 1, K2 tog, P, C1fk1ck**slip 1 to cable needle, hold to front, knit next stitch, knit 1 from cable - got it?**, P, SSK) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 13: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog], (K3 into 1, SSK, P, K, Llk, Lrk, K, P, K2 tog) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 15: [K2, P2, K2, K2tog], (K3 into 1, SSK, P, C2fk2ck **slip 2 to cable needle, hold to front, knit next 2 stitches, knit the 2 from cable needle**, P, K2 tog) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 17: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog], (K3 into 1, K2, P, K2, Llp, Lrp, K2, P, K2) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 19: [K2, P2, K2, K2tog], (K3 into 1, K, SSK, P, C2fp1ck, C1bk2cp, P, K2 tog, K) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 21: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog], (K3 into 1, K, SSK, P2, Llp, C2fk2ck, Lrp, P2, K2 tog, K) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 23: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K, SSK, P, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, P, K2 tog, K) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 25: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K3, P, C2fp2ck, slip 2 to cable needle, hold to back, knit 1, Llk, purl 2 from cable needle, K, Llk, P, K3) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 27: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K2, SSK, P3, C2fk2ck, P2, K2, P, K2 tog, K2) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 29: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K2, SSK, P, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, K2, Llp, P, Llp, K2 tog, K2) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 31: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K2, SSK, P, K2, P4, C2fk2ck, P3, K2 tog, K2) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 33: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K4, P, Llp, C2fp2ck, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, Lrp, P, K4) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2] *be careful here to get the two Lrp’s in - I kept missing them!

For those counting stitches, Row 9 was increased by 23 stitches to a total of 80 stitches. I increased it by 14 stitches on rows 13, 21, and 29. I increased it by 28 stitches on rows 17, 25, and 33. Every other odd row has no increases (and the even rows are just purled.
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Row 35: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K3, SSK, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, K2, P2, K2 tog, K3) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 37: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K3, SSK, P2, Llk, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, C2bk2cp, P2, K2 tog, K3) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 39: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K3, SSK, P2, Llk, C2fk1ck, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, K2 tog, K3) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 41: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K5, P2, K2, Llp, Lrp, C2fp2ck, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, P2, K5) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

*****Row 37 and 39 were increased by 7 stitches; Row 41 was increased by 28 stitches.
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Row 43: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K4, SSK, P2, K2, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, K2, P2, K2 tog, K4) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 45: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K4, SSK, P2, C2fp2ck, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, Llk, C2bk1cp, K, Llk, P2, K2 tog, K4) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 47: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K4, SSK, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, C2fk2ck, P2, K2, P2, K2 tog, K4) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 49: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K6, P2, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, K2, P, Llp, Lrp, P, K6) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 51: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K5, SSK, P2, K2, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, K2 tog, K5) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

**Row 45 was increased by 14; Row 49 was increased by 28.

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Row 53: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K5, SSK, P2, K, Llk, C1fp2ck, Llk, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, P2, K2 tog, K5) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 55: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K5, SSK, P2, K2, P2, C2fk2ck, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, K2, P2, K2 tog, K5) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 57: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K7, P, Llp, Lrp, P, K2, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, C2bk2cp, C2fp2ck, C2bk2cp, P2, K7) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 59: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K6, SSK, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, K2 tog, K6) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

** Row 53 was increased by 14 stitches and Row 57 by 28 stitches.

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Row 61: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K6, SSK, P3, Llp, C1bk2cp, C2fp1ck, P2, C1bk2cp, C2fp1ck, P2, C1bk2cp, C2fp1ck, Lrp, P3, K2 tog, K6) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 63: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K6, SSK, P3, C1bk2cp, P2, C2fp1ck, C1bk2cp, P2, C2fp1ck, C1bk2cp, P2, C2fp1ck, P3, K2 tog, K6) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 65: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K8, P3, K2, Llk, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, Lrk, K2, P3, K8) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

**Row 61 was increased by 14 stitches; Row 65 was increased by 28 stitches.
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Row 67: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K7, SSK, P3, C3fp1ck, P2, C1bk2cp, C2fp1ck, P2, C1bk2cp, C2fp1ck, P2, C1bk3cp, P3, K2 tog, K7) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 69: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K7, SSK, P4, C3fp1ck, Llk, C1bk2cp, P2, C2fp1ck, C1bk2cp, P2, C2fp1ck, Llk, C1bk3cp, P4, K2 tog, K7) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 71: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K7, SSK, P5, C3fk3ck, P4, C2fk2ck, P4, C3fk3ck, P5, K2 tog, K7) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 73: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K9, P4, C1bk3cp, C3fp1ck, P2, Llk, C1bk2cp, C2fp1ck, Llk, P2, C1bk3cp, C3fp1ck, P4, K9) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 75: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K8, SSK, P3, K2 tog, K2, Lrp, P2, C3fp1ck, C1bk3cp, P2, C3fp1ck, C1bk3cp, P2, Llp, K2, SSK, P3, K2 tog, K8) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 77: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K8, SSK, P2, K2 tog, Llk, K2, Lrp, P4, C3fk3ck, P4, C3fk3ck, P4, Llp, K2, Llk, SSK, P2, K2 tog, K8) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

** Rows 69 and 77 were increased by 14; Row 73 was increased by 28.
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Row 79: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K8, SSK, P, K2 tog, K3, Llk, P4, C1bk3cp, C3fp1ck, P2, C1bk3cp, C3fp1ck, P4, Lrk, K3, SSK, P, K2 tog, K8) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 81: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K10, P, K2 tog, K3, P3, K2 tog, K2, Lrp, P2, Llp, C3fp1ck, C1bk3cp, Lrp, P2, Llp, K2, SSK, P3, K3, SSK, P, K10) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2] ** this row increased the stitch count by 14.

Row 83: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K9, SSK, P, K2 tog, K2, P2, K2 tog, K2, Llk, P5, Llp, C3fk3ck, Lrp, P5, Lrk, K2, SSK, P2, K2, SSK, P, K2 tog, K9) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2]

Row 85: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K9, SSK, P, K2 tog, K, P, K2 tog, Lrk, K3, Llk, P5, C1bk3cp, C3fp1ck, P5, Lrk, K3, Llk, SSK, P, K, SSK, P, K2 tog, K9) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2]

Row 87: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K9, SSK, P14, K2 tog, Lrk, K2, Lrp, P2, Llp, K2, Llk, SSK, P14, K2 tog, K9) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2] ** this row increased the stitch count by 14

Row 89: [P2, K2, P2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K11, P13, K2 tog, Lrk, K3, Lrp, P4, Llp, K3, Llk, SSK, P13, K11) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, P2, K2, P2] ** this row increased the stitch count by 28

Row 91: [K2, P2, K2, K2 tog],(K3 into 1, K10, SSK, P12, K2 tog, Lrk, K4, P6, K4, Llk, SSK, P12, SSK, K10) X 7, K3 into 1, [SSK, K2, P2, K2] ** this row increased the stitch count by 14

Row 93: Bind off. You’re done! Now if it’s wool, soak it in a wool wash solution, rinse, squeeze out as much water as you can, lay it out in a beach towel and roll it and the beach towel together into a log and walk on the log (to squeeze out as much water as possible), then pin out on a large surface (I use the guest bed). The lines down the bits between the cabled panels should all be straight, and the cabled parts should be stretched out (the garter part will try to compress them some). Put a fan on it and let it dry, patting yourself on the back for a job well done!

If it’s acrylic, I’ve found the easiest way to kill it is to put several towels on a flat surface and pin the shawl out as stretched as I can get it, then steam it using an iron held 1/8 inch above the yarn. If you let the iron touch it, it will flatten the yarn weirdly, if it’s too far away the yarn doesn’t get hot enough and will snap back to the unstretched position. You should be able to see the yarn move slightly when the steam hits it, kind of shrinking and then relaxing. You may want to go around the edges again for good measure. Then pat yourself on the back and you’re done!

You may want to spray some starch on the edges to help them lay flat.

New design coming!

I'm 95% done designing the next prayer shawl, which will be more of a cape, actually, due to not much in the way of lacey holes and lots of cables. It probably won't be for beginning knitters, except maybe for the fearless ones. It will be dedicated to Kathy Kelly, founder of Voices in the Wilderness and also co-coordinator for Voices for Creative NonViolence. More about her when the pattern comes out.

Picture this: the cables will start as a single strand, which grows almost like a vine and spirals, ever enlarging as it reaches the edge until it is a whirlpool. I was thinking of tornadoes, maelstroms and spirals as I designed this, but now I feel it is quite beautiful. There will be elongated diamonds separating each cable panel (the only lace element), and an edge that would be easy to add buttonholes to if one wanted to fasten it around themselves.

Sometimes lace just isn't warm enough for some people. This should WARM them! My lace shawls fall off my shoulders a lot. This should stay on. I looked for cabled shawls and didn't see many at all and nothing like this one. How did it happen? I woke up at 1:00 in the morning with my brain just going. I contemplated God, chaos theory, activists, and the meaning of life, then this shawl popped into my head as a picture. Then I had to figure out how to make the yarn do what the picture required. Like so many other lace patterns, it just flew off the needles almost as if it had been already designed and I just had to remember how it was done.

The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly

Let's start this off with the good. I found a wonderful blog that tells how to make your own yarn swift! You know, those spindly-spinny things that help you move yarn between hanks, cones and balls. So if you'd like to get more into hand dyeing wool, or just a better way to wind hank or cone yarn into balls, here it is! I made one in a few hours with a miter box and power drill, spending around $2 on parts - the long bolt and some washers. I had the rest sitting in the garage.

Here it is: http://www.craftydiversions.com/patterns/homemade_yarn_swift.htm - THANK YOU Anne Kuo Lukito! You can buy a .pdf of the directions from her for just $2 on her site.

The only thing I'd like to add is, be sure to drill straight down when you make the hole in the center for the main bolt that holds it all together. Mine's off so one part of the swift is higher than the other now. Live and learn!

The Bad and Ugly
Sigh. Someone had written to me when I posted about charity knitting that on a certain reservation in the USA where handknit items were donated, a lot were just thrown away. So it was no little surprise to see this blog entry about the outcomes of some handmade afghans being sent to Afghanistan. Yes, being a people of rich artistic traditions in textiles, they don't seem to appreciate our handmade blankets of cheap acrylic.

Adieu Warm Woolies

Their website states:

"Dear Warm Woolies Friends,

Warm Woolies has decided to cease operating at the end of 2009.

Warm Woolies has always relied on relationships with international adoption agencies and international relief efforts to distribute our pieces overseas. Over the past year, due to matters beyond our control, these agencies and efforts are no longer able to distribute our pieces. Without these distribution channels, we are no longer able to fulfill our mission of providing children around the world with warm clothing."

Afghans for Afghans is still in operation and does almost the same thing.

Sally's Slippers

This pattern, a reworking of the "Felted Slippers" found on Midnattsol's blog is dedicated to Sally Fallon, a tireless worker to reach the masses with her message of how to be healthy. She's taken on the work of Weston A. Price, built upon what he started, and helps run the Weston A. Price Foundation (with a great group of other people like Mary Enig and Chris Masterjohn, to name a few). She co-authored the bestselling book "Nourishing Traditions" and has written several other books as well.

Weston A. Price was the world's most interesting dentist. He traveled the world, living with Eskimos and headhunters to find out why tribal people had perfect teeth while those in the industrialized world had crooked teeth with lots of cavities - what he found surpassed his own expectations as the nutritional differences also seemed to produce overall health and even emotional stability. He then made it his mission to bring what he learned about nutrition and health to the attention of the public, publishing his book "Nutrition and Physical Degeneration" and running studies on nutrition in the cities of America.

The Pattern

This is a fun way to make slippers. You knit a series of squares, in alternating directions, then sew a few seams and it magically becomes a slipper. Throw it in the wash to shrink it down and you get a wonderful warm soft cushiony slipper to warm your feet all winter. This is a great stashbusting project because each square can be a different color and you can use up all those odds and ends of wool leftover from other projects. If the yarn is too thin you can strand - use two or more strands together to make the thicknesses match. The only thing you need to be careful of is that all of the yarn you use needs to be "feltable" - that is, no superwash or acrylic here! Use wool.

To begin, knit up a square of the yarn you want to use in garter stitch and put it through your wash and dry cycle to see how much it's going to shrink (if you're knitting these for a charity and it doesn't matter what size the slippers wind up you can skip this part!). Get your gauge for the project from the shrunken swatch.

Then look up the size you want to make on my handy chart and see how big your squares need to be. In my chart I figured for 25% shrinkage but depending on the yarn it may be more or less so a swatch may be more reliable.

You'll begin by making square 1, using enough stitches to get the size square you'll need, and making twice as many rows as you have stitches going across (so if you cast on 12 stitches you'll do 24 rows in garter stitch). You can easily count rows by counting ridges and you'll know you're done when you have as many ridges on both sides as you do stitches on the needle. In my example I'm using 10 stitches and knitting 20 rows, or 10 rows of ridges.


After the first square, check that it is the right size (if you're using the chart) by tugging the sides out to make it square and measuring. Then bind off so you have just one stitch on the needles. From here on, you will always use the same number of stitches as in the first square to make the rest of the squares, and the same number of rows (sometimes one less on one side to make it come out at the right corner).


Cast on enough stitches to get the right number for the next square, counting the one stitch you still have on the needles. This will be square number 2. Knit until you have enough rows for a square (same number of ridges as you have stitches - don't stop when it "looks" like a square). Bind off so the last stitch will be diagonal from where the current square is attached to square one. Again, keep the last stitch on the needle.


Cast on enough stitches to make another square, like you did for square 2. Knit two rows. On the third row, knit all but the last stitch. Pick up the closest stitch you just bound off from square 2 by inserting the needle through one side of the loop. Then knit that together with the last stitch. Do this every time the row ends against square #2. Bind this square off so your last stitch will be down by square #2, keeping the last stitch on the needle.


Pick up stitches from the edge of square #2 on the other needle. If you have more than the number you need, continue binding off until you have the right number of stitches on your needles. Knit this square as you did the last one, picking up stitches from the bound off edge of square #1 and binding off so the last stitch is away from square #1. Pat yourself on the back, you're halfway done!

Pick up enough stitches along the top of the square you just completed to knit square number 5, picking up stitches from the bound off edge of square number 3 as you get to them at the end of the rows and knitting them together with the last stitch from the row.

When you finish square number 5, bind off so the last stitch is toward square number 3. Pick up enough stitches from square number 3 to knit another square (you may want to bind off another stitch to make sure the new square comes to the edge of square 3). Knit square number 6, making sure when you bind off that the last stitch is on the correct side to pick up stitches from the edge of the square you just completed to knit square number 7.

Knit square number 7, picking up stitches from the bound off edges of square number 5 as you come to it and knitting them together with the last stitch of the row. When you get enough rows on square 7, bind off so the last stitch is in the right position to start square number 8.

Pick up stitches from the edge of square 7 and knit square 8, binding off completely when you finish that square.

Now follow the diagram, matching up and stitching sides A and B, then C, D, and E. You've finished one slipper!

When you finish both slippers, put them through the full wash and dry cycle, high heat, to shrink them down. If they are still too big, you can do it again to shrink them more. If they are just a little tight, they will stretch to fit the foot comfortably in a day or two of use.

In case you want to use several colors and plan where they will be, here is the location of each square (unless you accidentally stitch it upside down!): 1 and 2 are the side flaps. 3 and 7 are the sides. 4 is the back, 5 is the bottom under the heel, 6 is the bottom under the toes, and 8 is the square on top of the toes.

Added 11/7/09: To make them non-skid, the cheapest and so far best way I've seen is to use 100% silicone caulk. You can do lines, dots, words (hand wash, or right and left), or cover the whole sole and spread with a craft stick or grooved spreader for extra traction.